The Story of MaltaBallou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
History
The Story of Malta
Ballou, Maturin M. (Maturin Murray)
Malta -- History
The clock of this church has three faces, showing the current hour, the
day of the week, and the day of the month. It is a curious, though not
remarkable, piece of work, interesting, however, as being the product of
a native Maltese mechanic. This edifice was intended to be the
Westminster Abbey of the order, where the mortal remains of its members
should find a lasting and monumental sepulchre. The architect, Girolamo
Cassan, was a famous artist of his day, who laid out and designed the
city of Valletta as a whole, with its many palaces, under the immediate
direction of the Grand Master whose name it bears.
As we draw aside the heavy matting which always hangs before the
entrance to the church, it is impossible not to be impressed by the
magnificence which is everywhere displayed.
An oppressive odor of floating incense at first salutes the senses, as
is the case in all Roman Catholic churches; but a few moments serve to
accustom one to the musty, unventilated place. It does not seem to occur
to the custodians of these edifices that such a place of public
assemblage requires change of atmosphere just as much as a domestic
residence. Architecturally, the church of St. John has no pretension
whatever, either inside or out, though its proportions are very grand.
The mosaic pavement is doubtless the most perfect specimen of the kind
in existence,--a mosaic of tombs, and an example of sepulchral
magnificence. The whole effect is rich beyond description, from
pavement to roof. Yet there is, strange as it may seem, a cold
emptiness, not to say gloom, which overcomes the stranger amid all this
plethora of furnishing and fresco. The detail is too infinite to be
taken in as a whole. Only a general impression of the place is retained
by the average visitor. To the thoughtful and unprejudiced it must
surely prove to be more pagan than Christian.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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