Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
Restorations and continual repairs have almost effaced the handiwork of
the original builders. The north-east part of the exterior is the most
ancient. The three magnificent windows of the apse, with their rich
tracery, are one of the most beautiful features of the original design.
And amid the swarms of baroque saints, in every contorted attitude of
theatric sentiment, which have settled on this part, as everywhere over
the building—four thousand four hundred and forty, outside and in, they
say—a patient observer may pick out some which, by their dignified
simplicity, refinement and repose, show the purer taste of the fifteenth
and early sixteenth centuries. The lowest figures on the northernmost
window of the apse are an Adam and Eve, and have been attributed to
Antonio Rizzo, a fifteenth century Venetian sculptor, known by his work
in the cortile of the Doge’s Palace. Cristoforo Solari, Andrea Fusina,
Tomaso da Cazzaniga, il Bambaia, are all represented by sculptures on
the apse. Higher up are works by earlier and less accomplished hands,
huge gargoyles of fantastic form—dragons, a serpent coiled round the
nude body of a woman, a child entwining itself with a bough, a female
figure with great curling hair, a siren with bat’s wings—monstrous
creations of the Northern fancy, which dominated in the first years of
the Cathedral. Beneath these gargoyles are ranged the so-called Giganti,
colossal statues of warriors, heralds, huntsmen, foresters,
slaves—figures of romance and of the rude fields too. Some are by German
sculptors, and by Lombards under their influence; others of rather later
date show new and realistic tendencies.
There is little of interest on the south side and in the lower end of
the exterior. The monotonous length of the vast flanks is unbroken by
the rich interest of doorways, such as were originally projected. The
classic façade is frankly discordant, though it is no less thickly
littered with bad sculptures. The bronze doors of the middle entrance
are a very recent work, showing the hark back of the modern sculptor to
Quattrocento models. But if the exterior of the Duomo lacks in
impressiveness, the interior makes amends. Wonder and awe overwhelm one
on entering. In the dim religious light from the great stained windows,
one is aware of vast echoing aisles, of mighty columns passing away, one
behind the other, into depths and distances of rich gloom, where the
pointed lines of arch behind arch become visible, broken by long slits
of glowing glass. A quiet reigns as of places untrodden by earthly
things. Pigmy human forms creep here and there over the immense expanses
of the pavement, or kneel at the foot of a column, bowed in devotion.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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