Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
In this solemn interior it seems as if the native and foreign ideals had
united for once, with harmonious result. Here is the breadth and
spaciousness of Latin thought—the loftiness of Gothic. With its five
aisles, transepts and apsidal east end, the church is of striking
simplicity. There are no chapels built out, few side altars, and few
monuments. The High Altar, with its canopy, and the florid pulpits and
marble screen round the sanctuary, are the only conspicuous objects.
There is little incident in the building itself. A feeling gains upon
one, after a time, of a certain emptiness, monotony, even poverty, in
all this grandeur of height and space. The inadequacy of the short light
arches of the nave, in comparison with the colossal shafts supporting
them becomes visible, and the eye is offended by the shameless deception
of the roof, which is painted to simulate open tracery, and give a false
effect of added height. The endless repetition of line and arch ends by
being wearisome, and one longs for the rich symmetric light and shade of
triforium and clerestory, for the beautiful mouldings, the star
blackness of trefoil and quatrefoil piercings, and for all that deep and
varied interest which grows upon the eye slowly, and in just relation to
general effect, in the best Gothic architecture. The curious and
elaborate capitals, like huge rings, are the most conspicuous details
here. Each in itself is a wonderful piece of Gothic ornament, with
arcades and crocketed pinnacles and niches filled with statues, but they
are so high up that one can hardly appreciate them in detail. As
capitals, one must quarrel with them. They do not seem natural members
of the columns, but things put on merely for effect, and look as if they
were meant to slip up and down, and might be at the bottom as well as at
the top. That on the great pier to the left of the High Altar is said to
be the handiwork of Heinrich von Gmünd, and to have been the model of
the rest. The statues which decorate the lofty interior of the cupola,
high up, are in the characteristic manner of the late fifteenth century
Lombard sculptors, and the busts of the Fathers of the Church in the
spandrils are by Cristoforo Solari. The rest of the ornamentation in the
church is mostly of the Borromean and later periods. It is the ascetic
cardinal’s fault that all the picturesque incrustations which had
gathered upon the old building, with priceless historic associations,
are missing. He ruthlessly swept away the shades of the rich and lively
past, its profanities and sincerities together. The tombs of the old
Lords of Milan, Visconti and Sforza, in the ambulatory, were cleared
away, and other monuments were destroyed or displaced in too zealous
obedience to the decree of the Council of Trent, forbidding the burial
of bodies in monuments in churches. The doors in the transepts were
walled up, and his favourite sculptor, Pellegrino Tebaldi, a belated
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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