Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
The Cathedral itself is a wonderful vision from the top, with its vistas
of flying buttresses and crocketed pinnacles, and all its immensity of
intricate stone-work. The colour of the marble, and the play of light
and shade upon the fretted surfaces give it a peculiar enchantment.
Looked at closely, however, it all becomes rather frivolous and
wearisome. Nothing could be more monotonous than the uninventive
likeness in difference of the endless ornamentation. No one detail is
the same as another, yet the lines are all alike, for ever and ever
repeated. The actual work is mostly modern. The most conspicuous and
interesting feature is, of course, the great octagonal cupola, the main
part of which was built in the early years of the sixteenth century by
Amadeo. He was prevented, however, by the continual objections and
disputes of the experts whose advice was called in about it, from
finishing the work, and the ornate construction of rampant arches and
pinnacles and central spire which surmounts it belongs to the eighteenth
century. Of the four spiral turrets at the corners, with staircases in
them, three were not built till the last century, but the one on the
north-east was designed by Amadeo himself, who perhaps set his own hand
to some of the excessively flamboyant ornamentation. It is called the
_Guglia di Amadeo_, but the upper part was rebuilt in 1799. The loggetta
connecting it with the body of the structure is encrusted with charming
reliefs, but though the delightful medley of putti, and angels dancing
and playing instruments of music round the medallions of Madonna on one
side, and the Pietà on the other, have much of the gaiety and abandon of
Amadeo’s work, their execution is too weak for him. The attractive
infants, swinging and playing in the openings of the stone-work on
either side of the passage lower down are more like his handiwork, and
the New Testament scenes carved in low relief at the base are probably
by a late follower of the master.[7] At the top of the staircase in this
_Guglia_, now kept locked, in the little passage in the loggetta, there
is a medallion portrait in bas-relief, by an unknown hand, of Amadeo
himself, showing the deep-lined bony profile of an old man, with scanty
locks flowing from under his beretta.
Footnote 7:
Malaguzzi Valeri, _G. A. Amadeo_, p. 232.
[Illustration: GIANT STATUES ON THE DUOMO.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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