Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
Other details of interest are to be seen on and about the roof of the
apse. When in ascending from below you emerge into the open air, take
the passage straight before you, instead of mounting higher or turning
on to the roof of the south aisle. Passing through a covered way you
will soon come out upon a little projection of the roof, close to some
of the monstrous gargoyles, and the _Giganti_ beneath them. These last
are robust and dignified survivals of the fourteenth century, and of the
serious traditions of the Lake Masters, and are curiously at variance
with the later style of ornamentation on the building. Further on, on
the roof of the south sacristy, to which a stairway leads down, stands
the Eve of Cristoforo Solari, a graceful and expressive figure, lumpy,
however, in its contours. On the corresponding roof of the north
sacristy, on the other side of the apse, is the companion statue of
Adam, leaning in melancholy pose upon his spade, a heavy and nerveless
presentment of the father of mankind, yet most favourably distinguished
in taste from the later statues on the Cathedral. The pinnacle at the
north-east angle of this sacristy roof, surmounted by the figure of a
Knight holding a banner, is one of the oldest pieces of work on the
Cathedral. It is fourteenth century pure Gothic, and the careful and
artistic workmanship of all the rich detail of ornament on it is very
impressive in comparison with its surroundings.
From the roof of the Cathedral one has an unobstructed view of the tall
octagonal Campanile of San Gottardo to the south. This beautiful and
characteristic North Italian building of the fourteenth century combines
the beauties of Lombard and Gothic with incomparably harmonious effect,
achieving a wonderful charm of colour and grace by the delicate marble
arcades and slender soaring shafts of marble with which the solidity of
the ruddy brick is lightened. Unfortunately we see the brick now in the
rawness of recent restoration. The tiled steeple is surmounted by a
bronze angel in stiff pose with wings outspread. This Campanile was
built about 1330 by Magister Franciscus di Pecoraris da Cremona for Azzo
Visconte. The church beside it which that gouty prince raised in
honour—among other saints—of S. Gottardo, the protector of sufferers
from gout, and filled with precious ornaments and works of art, replaced
the old Baptistery, San Giovanni alle Fonti. It was completely
modernised in 1770, and the ancient apse—which is perhaps anterior to
the fourteenth century—is the only survival of the old building. San
Gottardo served as the chapel of the great Visconte palace, which stood
on the south of the Cathedral where now sprawl the melancholy courts and
mean buildings of the Palazzo Reale. This palace had been originally the
seat of the Milanese Consuls, and the space around it was the Broletto
Vecchio, where the public buildings stood in the early days of the
Republic. When Matteo Visconte made himself master of Milan, he and his
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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