Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
The interior of the basilica has the same noble effect of largeness,
dignity, and repose as the atrium. In the solemn obscurity and devout
silence one becomes aware of massive arches and deep vaulting, of great
spaces and dim, far-off recesses, of rich colour and gilding, of
grotesque forms and wreathing serpentine stems in the pallid stone of
capitals and pulpit and screen. The careful restoration of half a
century ago has repaired as much as possible the mishandlings which the
church suffered from the zeal of Carlo Borromeo, and again two hundred
years later, though the modern decoration of the cupola cannot be
admired. We now see the Lombard basilica in its twelfth century form,
with a great central nave of four bays, and side aisles with
_matronei_—galleries for the women—above them, an essential feature of a
Romanesque church. The nave is roofed with cross vaults springing from
enormous pilasters, except the last bay before the choir, which opens up
into a lofty cupola, whence a circumscribed light pours down from a
circle of windows high up, illuminating the beautiful canopy of the High
Altar beneath. This cupola, carried up to a height not in accord with
the rest of the church, is a thirteenth century restoration, following a
disastrous fall of the roof of this part in 1196.
[Illustration: CIBORIUM, ST. AMBROGIO.]
The eastern portion of the basilica, which has three apses, is a
survival of the ninth century building. The apses do not exactly
correspond in direction with the later built body of the church, as is
easily seen in looking up from the nave to the central apse. That they
belong to the church built for the monks, and not to an earlier
basilica, as their obvious priority to the rest of the building has led
the supporters of the ninth century theory to suppose, is shown by there
being three apses, and by the prolongation of the space in front of them
for the choir, to accommodate the monks, who needed a place apart from
the people for their special functions. In a very early basilica there
would be but one apse, and it would start from the nave. The sanctuary
is raised a few steps above the level of the nave, and in its midst,
conspicuous and alone as it should be, beneath the noble curves of arch
and cupola rises the four-sided canopy of the High Altar, upon four
antique columns of red porphyry, glowing with deep colour and gilding
against the rich darkness of the great mosaic in the tribune behind. The
decoration of the canopy is of stucco. Moulded upon the flat pediments
above the semicircular arches are gilded figures in relief against a
background of deep blue; on the front, facing into the nave, Christ
enthroned, giving the keys to Peter, and the law to Paul; on the back
St. Ambrogio, protected by an angel behind him, stands between SS.
Gervasio and Protasio, who present to him two kneeling Benedictine
monks, one of whom holds in his hands a model of the canopy, and is
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