Milan (Italy) -- Description and travel; Milan (Italy) -- History
S. Calimero, to the north-east, is also Romanesque. S. Nazaro, close to
the last, one of the oldest foundations, standing in the days of St.
Ambrose, rebuilt in later centuries and again completely transformed by
Cardinal Borromeo, has preserved some Romanesque features in its
exterior. Within there are some old stained-glass windows of German
workmanship. A very precious silver coffer, with beautiful reliefs of
late Roman workmanship, is also kept here. Attached to the church is a
sepulchral chapel, built for Gian Giacomo Trivulzio by Francesco da
Briosco in 1518. The tombs of the great Marshal and of members of his
family, with their recumbent figures carved upon them by sixteenth
century sculptors, may be seen in it.
S. Giovanni alla Conca, also a very ancient church and much favoured by
Bernabò Visconti, has a fine thirteenth century façade, restored.
A very ancient church, said to have been the first built in Milan, on
the site of a temple to the Sun, is the little S. Babila, just opposite
the Column with the Lion, which marks the place of the old Porta
Orientale at the beginning of Corso Venezia. As seen now S. Babila is a
complete restoration, very scientifically accomplished in the last few
years, and presents within and without a very perfect model of a Lombard
church of the early centuries after the 1000.
Most of these early Milanese buildings have indeed to be accepted on the
faith of the modern restorer, but for whom these interesting churches
would still be vested in the hideous baroque disfigurements of the
seventeenth and eighteenth centuries. S. Sepolcro, close to the
Biblioteca Ambrosiana, is one of these. The towers, the crypt—studied
with much interest by Leonardo da Vinci—and the exterior of the apse
alone remained of the eleventh or twelfth century church, and these have
been lately restored and a new façade built in appropriate style to
replace the Borromean substitute for the original. The interior is quite
spoilt. In the sacristy there is a Nativity by Gianpietrino, a
characteristic work, with some infants of attractively soft contours,
but curiously brown flesh colour in the foreground. Sta. Maria a
Beltrade, off Via Torino on the west side, is of very ancient origin,
but has nothing of interest left except a twelfth century bas-relief of
rudest and most childish style upon the wall outside, representing the
old Candlemas procession in which an image of Madonna was carried from
this church to the Cathedral, a Christian substitute for the Pagan
ceremony in honour of Cybele.
Another ancient Milanese sanctuary, the Chapel of S. Satiro, built in
879, was restored in the Renaissance period, and incorporated with the
Church of Sta. Maria presso S. Satiro.[14]
Footnote 14:
See Chapter XIII.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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