From the Piazza del Papa several roads branch off to different points of
the town. To the right the Via Bontempi leads down past some beautiful
old palaces into a network of typical Perugian streets. The churches of
S. Fiorenzo, the Carmine, and S. Maria Nuova, all of which have
_gonfaloni_ or banners by Bonfigli, lie in this direction, and are very
well worth visiting. Indeed, the _gonfalone_ in S. Maria Nuova is
extraordinarily interesting: a typical specimen of that tragic and
almost passionate form of art which arose out of, and answered to, the
needs of a people convinced of its own moral depravity (see p. 232). To
the left of the Via Bontempi a narrow street winds steeply up the hill
to the church of S. Severo, which stands high up above the church of S.
Maria Nuova, and commands a splendid view to the east of the city, and
away across the valley of the Tiber to Assisi. "It is asserted by some
persons," says Siepi, "that in the year 1007 a little colony of
Camaldolese monks was transferred to the city of Perugia, who, during
the lifetime of their holy founder, took up their abode on the hill of
S. Severo, and here, upon the ruins of an ancient temple, which some
believe was dedicated to the sun god, and upon a spot which might be
termed the Acropolis of Perugia, they built their church, and dedicated
it to S. Severo, Bishop of Ravenna, probably because they came into
Perugia from that same city." As to whether the church of S. Severo was
really built on the site of an old pagan temple dedicated to the sun god
we cannot say; it is certain that this whole quarter of the town is
called Porta Sole, but, however it be, the church of the Camaldolese
monks has been quite altered in the course of centuries, and, except for
its position and its fresco, it has not much to charm the casual
tourist. During later restorations the outer porch with Raphael's and
Perugino's fresco was preserved, and built into a little chapel, where
we see it now. The fresco is signed 1505, so Raphael was no longer a
boy when he painted it. Some years later he painted his great pictures
in the Stanze of the Vatican, and, perhaps, he was feeling his way to
these grand compositions when he drew his semi-circle of saints on the
walls of the little old church of S. Severo. Did the master Perugino
watch his brilliant pupil as he painted? There is a touch of pathos in
the facts which follow:--Raphael the mighty genius dies, and Rome goes
into mourning for him; fourteen or fifteen years go by, and Perugino,
who, be it remembered, was not a young man when the slim youth from
Urbino came one day into his studio and asked to learn the art of
painting from him, comes back to the spot where Raphael's fresco shines
upon the wall, and paints, in his most faded style, the six pale saints
which we now see below it....
PORTA SOLE.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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