But to return once more to the piazza. Another road leads up immediately
behind the statue of Pope Julius to one of the most surprising points in
the city, namely, the bastions of Porta Sole. It was to this high point,
which commands an extraordinary view over the north of the town, that
Dante alluded when writing of Perugia:
"Intra Tupino e l'acqua che discende
Del colle eletto del beato Ubaldo
Fertile costa d'alto monte pende,
Onde Perugia sente freddo e caldo
Da Porta Sole, e diretro le piange
Per grave giogo Nocera con Gualdo."
Porta Sole is mixed up with a strange and a most typical bit of Perugian
history. We have seen how much this city was influenced by the popes,
and how, in the many fluctuations of her history, she nearly always
returned to the nominal rule of the Church of Rome. Early in the
fourteenth century she broke away for a time from Papal power, but in
1370 again swore allegiance to Pope Urban IV., who sent his brother,
Cardinal Albano, to receive the act of submission from her people. The
following year the Cardinal of Jerusalem came to Perugia to establish
peace between the nobles and the _Raspanti_. He was escorted by about
500 horsemen and 300 infantry, and the people received him with
enthusiasm, coming out to meet him with palms in their hands, and cries
of "Viva Santa Madre Chiesa, eviva il Signore!" Unfortunately his wise
rule lasted but a year, and he was succeeded by a very different sort of
person, namely, the Abbot of Mommaggiore from Cluny (see p. 30), who
arrived in Perugia in a most hostile frame of mind, and quite prepared
for war and for revolts of every kind. The Abbot at once set to work to
build for himself fortresses, the like of which, as one proud chronicler
relates, had never before been seen in Italy. He erected a massive
citadel at Porta Sole, and in order to be in connection with the Palazzo
dei Priori he made a covered passage with high machicolated walls to
join the two together. In doing this he did not scruple to knock down a
large part of the cathedral which happened to come in his way. At Porta
S. Antonio, too, the Abbot built some large and splendid houses, part of
which may still be seen, and these he joined by means of a covered
passage to the other citadel on Porta Sole. Thus Mommaggiore may be said
to have had a run over half the city of Perugia. So beautiful and
luxurious were his palaces at S. Antonio, that we are told they seemed a
veritable paradise. In them he stored enough wine and flour and other
things to last him and his French companions for at least ten years,
and not content with all these preparations for a possible revolt of the
citizens, he even called in the help of an English _condottiere_, Sir
John Hawkwood, who was at that time in the service of the Church, to
come and ravage all the country round Perugia.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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