[70] There are many people still living in Perugia who remember
the time when those who wanted to converse over a glass of good
wine would give each other rendezvous at "Il Papa." In Hawthorne's
"Transformation" some of the principal characters keep a tryst under
this same statue.
[71] It must, however, be remembered that Julius' policy was only on
the surface, and that the yoke of Rome was not by any means lifted
from the city.
[72] _Lancie_: stands in old Italian for three horsemen.
[73] There are one or two other points of interest in this square,
which are dwarfed, of course, by the splendid Etruscan relic. In
the big block of late Renaissance building (Palazzo Galenga) to the
left, Goldoni acted as a child, and in the same square the composer,
Francesco Morlacchi, was born. Morlacchi was the author of much music,
sacred and profane, and the Perugians, who cannot truly be called a
musical race, are very proud of, and have named their biggest theatre
after him. Morlacchi died in 1841, and the great Requiem which he
had composed for the funeral of his patron, Frederic Augustus I. of
Saxony, was sung in the Duomo of Perugia, "to obtain eternal peace for
the soul of this her valiant son."
[74] The borgo of S. Angelo was always reported in old days to be
inhabited by the most wicked people in Perugia, and, indeed, during
the turmoils of the centuries the first rumble of revolution and of
discord could usually be traced to this quarter.
[75] Perugino seems to have taken a particular pleasure in work of
this sort; his designs for the Cambio stalls are a good illustration
of the ingenuity he expended on them.
[76] In one of the loveliest of the old houses as one passes down to
the left, Madame Alinda Brunamonte lives: a poetess of whose talent
Perugia is most justly proud; and a little lower down is the Palazzo
degli Oddi with its exquisite copy, said to be by Pinturicchio, of
Raphael's Madonna del Libro, and the strange charts of the Oddi
palaces upon the plain, decorating its walls.
[77] It is fair to say that many other towns dispute this strange
honour with Perugia, and probably with far better claims.
[78] Ducci did other excellent work in Perugia, namely, the gate of
S. Pietro, the beautiful altar in S. Domenico, and a Madonna and
child which is now in the University Museum, but which was originally
made for a niche on the façade of S. Francesco al Prato. It was the
Florentine sculptor, too, who is said to have founded the pottery
works at Deruta.
[79] See plate.
[80] See poem of "Viola," by Alinda Brunamonte.
[81] See "History of the Papacy during the Reformation," vol. i. p.
146.
[82] In Bonfigli's great _gonfalone_ now at the Pinacoteca, but
originally painted for the Oratory of S. Bernardino, we see a meeting
of the Confraternities, and an admirable portrait of their chapel and
their square.
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