The Story of SevilleGallichan, Walter M. (Walter Matthew)
History
The Story of Seville
Gallichan, Walter M. (Walter Matthew)
Seville (Spain)
Who has not heard of the charm of Andalusian dancing? Seville is the
home of the _bailarin_, the artist of the _bolero_, _olé_, _Sevilliana_,
and other dances. On every evening in summer, the inhabitants dance in
their _patios_ to the guitar and castanets, while the street lads
perform their Oriental antics in the _plazas_ and bye-streets. The
cleverest professional dancing is to be seen at the _Café de Novedades_,
at the end of the Calle de las Sierpes, where it is joined by the Calle
de Campana. There are other _cafés_ in Sierpes where national and gipsy
dancing may be witnessed, but perhaps the most characteristic
performances are those of the Novedades. You may obtain a seat, just in
front of the stage, for half a peseta. The entertainment usually opens
with a representation of gipsy or _flamenco_ dancing, which is a strange
exercise and difficult to describe. A number of women sit in a
semi-circle on the stage, and in the centre of the dancers is a male
guitar player. Nothing happens for some time, but the spectators evince
no impatience. They sip coffee, smoke, and chat contentedly.
Presently one of the _flamenco_ women quits her chair, and begins to
strike extraordinary postures. At one moment she might be trying to
impersonate Ajax defying the lightning; in the next she is apparently
fleeing from a satyr. Her hands are held high above her head, and there
is a continual movement of the fingers. She writhes and wriggles rather
than dances, and the feet play no part, except that the heels now and
then thump the stage. Meanwhile her seated companions drown the sound of
the guitar with the clapping of their hands and cries of _anda!_
One after another the women go through these curious contortions to the
delight of the audience. I believe that there are subtle fascinations in
these dances when one understands the drama which they represent; but to
the casual spectator they are somewhat tedious, and they do not make
much appeal to the imagination or to one's sense of the graceful in
movement. Most visitors will prefer the Andalusian dancing. The dancers
of the Novedades are extremely nimble in the _bolero_, one of the
prettiest and most joyous of dances. Their shapely, lissome feet skim
and bound in bewildering and intricate steps, to the clicking of
ribbon-decked castanets. They spring into the air, hover, and bound
again; they move rapidly on their toes, float, glide, and almost fly. It
is a wonderful sight. One is sorry when the troop leave the stage. There
is an intoxication in watching such grace, lightness and agility.
The singing of _coplas_ (couplets) is one of the attractions at this
_café_. This form of vocalisation is very Andalusian. I can only
describe it as a prolonged _tremolo_; the singer appears to sing a verse
without drawing breath, and the effort often seems painful. A 'star' in
this art is exceedingly popular, and his singing is sure to be followed
by loud plaudits.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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