The Story of SevilleGallichan, Walter M. (Walter Matthew)
History
The Story of Seville
Gallichan, Walter M. (Walter Matthew)
Seville (Spain)
Gitana dancing of a more pronounced sort may be studied in the suburb of
Triana, where there is a colony of gipsies. Those who have read George
Borrow's _The Zincali: An Account of the Gypsies of Spain_, will
discover an increased interest in their visit to the Gitana quarter.
Some of the Triana gipsies are the swarthiest and weirdest of their
race. A hag, who might be a hundred, clutches your arm, and looks into
your face with her cunning black eyes as she begs for alms. She has the
features of an Egyptian, coal black hair, and a skin like the
calf-binding of an old book. A nude brown boy rolls in the road, a Cupid
in sepia.
Here is a lovely girl of fourteen, with a lithe figure, feline
movements, huge dark eyes, jet locks, and a rich olive tinting of the
skin. She is conscious of her beauty, and will not cease to insist upon
receiving a coin for the pleasure that her charms afford the admiring
Gentiles. Whatever you give her, she will ask for more. But she is very
beautiful, and most beauties are exacting. Some of these Romany people
are almost as swarthy as negroes. There is hardly one who would not make
a splendid model for an artist. Their graceful unstudied pose is most
alluring to the painter, while the mystery of their glowing eyes, their
strange lore, and secret speech invest them with romance and poetry that
appeal to Mr. Leland and Mr. Watts-Dunton.
George Eliot must have experienced the spell of these tawny folk during
her visit to Spain. Her 'Spanish Gypsy,' is a 'creation' but it was to
the Gitanas of the highways that the poet owed her inspiration. 'Gypsy
Borrow' found the race irresistible; the tongue, the customs, the
esoterics of the Zincali of Spain were to him a subject of fascinating
study.
In the old days the Romany fared ill in the Peninsula. He was a pariah,
a suspect, an object of persecution. But to-day Sevillian gentle-folk
are inclined to pet the Gitanas, and it is quite 'good form' to use
Romany phrases, and to appear a little gipsyish. The sons of wealthy
families are the patrons of the _flamenco_ dances; they are enthralled
by the loveliness of the lithe nut-brown maids, with piercing eyes,
carmine lips, and pearly teeth. But it all ends in admiration. No bribe
will tempt the Gitana lass to swerve from the strict code of chastity
laid down by the tradition of her class.
To see the Gitanas at their best, or living under primitive conditions,
take a trip down to Coria on the Guadalquivir. A steamboat starts daily
from the Triana Bridge at about half-past seven in the morning. The
voyage is interesting, and you can return in time for evening dinner.
You pass two or three villages with landing-stages, and gain views of
the distant marshes towards the mouth of the river, while on the right
bank are slopes clothed with olives and vines. Pottery is made from the
red clay of the foothills, and a number of gipsies work at this
industry.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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