The Story of Siena and San GimignanoGardner, Edmund G.
History
The Story of Siena and San Gimignano
Gardner, Edmund G.
Art -- Italy -- Siena; San Gimignano (Italy) -- History; Siena (Italy) -- History
We pass up through the oaks and ilex-trees--the latter, scanty in parts
and freshly planted round the convent buildings, are grand and dense
enough further on to make a real forest still--until we reach the
_Eremo_, with its small church and castle-like square tower of the
monastery. The present buildings, though restored, date from the
fourteenth century, and the tower was built in 1404, when Filippo
himself was Prior. The place is silent and deserted now, left in the
charge of a family of contadini, save for a month or so in the year,
when the students of the Archbishop's seminary of Siena come here for
their _villeggiatura_.
Outside the church, in the portico, are frescoes painted about 1343 by a
certain Paolo di Maestro Neri, a follower of Ambrogio Lorenzetti,
somewhat recalling the style and spirit of those of the master himself
in the Sala de' Nove, or those by that other unknown pupil of his in the
Campo Santo of Pisa. The whole portico in front of the church is covered
with them, mainly in monochrome; partly obliterated, they originally
formed one of those vast allegories of human life in which the painters
of the Trecento--above all the Sienese--delighted. The artist here is as
severely ascetical and monastic in spirit as the unknown master of the
"Triumph of Death." On the one side is Paradise; on the other side is
Hell. The long wall between them sets forth the life of the cloister and
the life of the world, the one leading to Heaven, the other to Hell. In
the one, we have peace and war; love-making and dancing; feasting and
dicing, the loser seizing the winner by the throat; the car of pleasure,
over which Cupid flies, while youths and ladies are with musicians
within; a great boar-hunt; money-changing; a court of law; travellers
waylaid by robbers. The devils are in it all; they wait by the
gaming-table, they sit on the horse that draws the car of pleasure, they
watch the hunting and all man's ordinary business, they pounce upon the
soul of the murdered, they preside over the death-bed of the impenitent.
War is raging in earnest; a grim sea-fight is in progress, the devils
are blowing on the ships and urging them against each other; there is
the storming of a castle--the demons sound the trumpets for the
onslaught, and carry off through the air the souls of those that fall.
But above, behind the city from whose gates the pleasure-seeking crowd
of worldlings has passed out, is Christ with the banner of the
Resurrection--ready to save, if only they will turn to Him.[165] And in
the other fresco to our left, a number of men of all ages and conditions
have taken their crosses upon their shoulders, to carry them after
Christ. We are shown the Works of Mercy and the life of the Evangelical
Counsels. The devil is here too--but only to be vanquished and put to
flight. Then we have the death of the just--in the corner, to match the
death of the impenitent sinner at the end of the other fresco. And after
that, comes only the Paradise.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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