“Few towns,” says Mr Selwyn Brinton, “have an individuality more delightsome than Verona--Verona the Worthy (Verona la Degna) as she was called”--and if I shall succeed in endearing that individuality and making it familiar to the traveller wandering through this “worthy” and glorious city, I shall not have laboured in vain. PALAZZO SORANZO, VENICE, _January 1902_. CONTENTS CHAPTER I .....PAGE _Origin and Growth of the City--Verona under the Romans--Goths and Lombards in Verona--The Adige_.....1 CHAPTER II _The Arena_.....23 CHAPTER III _The Middle Ages--Ezzelino da Romano_.....43 CHAPTER IV _The Scaligers_.....66 CHAPTER V _From the Fall of the Scaligers to the Present Day_.....103 CHAPTER VI _Men of Letters--School of Painting_.....124 CHAPTER VII _The Duomo--S. Giovanni in Fonte--Biblioteca Capitolare--Vescovado--St Anastasia--Piazza delle Erbe_.....150 CHAPTER VIII _Piazza dei Signori--Sta. Maria Antica--Tombs of the Scaligers_.....178 CHAPTER IX _Via Cappello--San Fermo--Museo Civico and Picture Gallery_.....199 CHAPTER X _S. Paolo di Campo Marte--SS. Nazzaro e Celso--The Grotto di S. Nazzaro--St Thomas of Canterbury--Giardino Giusti--Sta. Maria in Organo--S. Giovanni in Valle--Teatro Antico--SS. Siro e Libera--Castle of Theodoric--S. Stefano--S. Giorgio in Braida_.....222 CHAPTER XI _Sant’ Eufemia--Porta dei Borsari--S.S. Apostoli--S. Lorenzo--S. Bernardino--Sta. Trinità--Tomb of Romeo and Juliet--Ponte Rofiolo--Piazza Brà_.....250 CHAPTER XII _San Zeno_.....267 CHAPTER XIII _Verona and its Crown of Castles_.....281 CHAPTER XIV _Plan for seeing the Town--Hotels_.....299 ILLUSTRATIONS .....PAGE _Centrepiece by Andrea Mantegna behind the High Altar at San Zeno_ (_Photogravure_) _Frontispiece_ _Castel S. Pietro from the Adige_.....5 _A Vendor of Fresh Water_.....20 _The Arena_.....22 _The façade of the Duomo_.....45 _Tower of the former Convent of S. Zeno._ (_The only remaining fragment of the building where the mediæval German emperors stopt on their way to Rome_).....50 _Church of S. Zeno. Capital in the Nave_.....54 _The Tribuna--Ancient Seat of Judgment, Piazza delle Erbe_.....63 _Old Seal of Verona_.....65 _The Costa. Palazzo of Cangrande in the distance where he entertained Dante_.....75 _The back of Casa Mozzanti. Once inhabited by Alberto della Scala_.....85 _Tomb of Mastino II. della Scala_.....91 _Ponte Scaligeri. Bridge of Castel Vecchio_.....95 _Fountain in the Piazza delle Erbe._ (_Statue said originally to be of the third century_).....99 _Shield of the Scaligers, with the “Holy Bird,” the badge of their dignity as Vicars Imperial_.....102 _The Piazza delle Erbe, with the Venetian Column_.....111 _Palazzo del Consiglio. Architect Fra Giocondo_.....125 _Madonna and Child, V. Pisanello, Museo Civico_.....137