The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
Throughout Spain, as we have observed, and as all travellers will
notice when they visit that country, innumerable vile odours prevail
everywhere and are one of the most unpleasant characteristics of the
country. This, together with a general ignorance or carelessness of all
household draining, of course proves one of the most fruitful causes of
the cholera which periodically creates such awful ravages throughout
the land. It is quite curious how callous a Spaniard appears in the
midst of the most frightful odours that can be imagined. While we can
scarcely breathe, being compelled to hold our noses in such a way
that we are almost suffocated, the dignified Spaniard moves along as
serene and untroubled as if he were amidst the rose-gardens of "Gul in
her bloom." In fact, he seems rather to like odours that to others are
insupportable. If his opinion coincided with that of some medical men,
who consider bad smells good for health, he could not endure them with
greater equanimity.
Majorca is comparatively free from this pest, although the sanitary
arrangements of Palma are still very primitive. Two years ago, cholera
raged furiously in the city, and on many of the doors of the houses
and palaces one still sees notices which were written in chalk at the
time, for the dead-cart to wait for a load as it passed through the
streets--exactly as in London during the plague two hundred years
ago. On the fine old doorway of the palace belonging to an English
gentleman--a post-captain in the British navy--to whom we were much
indebted for great kindness and hospitality tendered to us during our
sojourn at Palma,--we found the following inscription scratched in
chalk:--"Muertos: Juan. Lorenzo. Faustina."
Many years ago, in order to force the Spanish doctors to be more
assiduous in the study of their profession, it was ordered by
Government that on the door of the house of a medical man there should
be traced as many red marks or crosses as the number of patients who
died under his treatment. A nervous Englishman arriving in Madrid
became indisposed, and sent his servant to explore the whole city in
quest of a doctor who, having the fewest red marks chalked on his
door, must consequently have--as he concluded--the fewest deaths to
answer for. A medical gentleman was thus discovered whose residence
was distinguished by only one mark, and him the Englishman immediately
retained. The invalid congratulating himself before some friends on
what he considered a "treasure trove," they clasped their hands, and
exclaimed--"Dios! What have you done? You have chosen the worst doctor
in Spain! He never had but one patient in his life, and he died under
him!"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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