The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
It is astonishing the horror of fresh air entertained by Spaniards. On
one blazing day--the day before our departure from Palma--while we were
undergoing the agonies of packing our portmanteau, an old lady rushed
violently into our bedroom without "with your leave," or "by your
leave," and, while giving utterance to a torrent of incoherent sounds,
expressive either of remonstrance or resentment, slammed together the
window-frames, the greatest anxiety being at the same time depicted on
her countenance, and her eyes looking at us with a glance which seemed
to say "Are you mad?"
Packing is a great art quite as much so as the comprehension of
Bradshaw. In our opinion the art of packing, Bradshaw, carving, and
manners should be taught at all schools as distinct branches of
education, in order to render a man what Mrs. Malaprop would have
called an "Admiral Crichton." It is very curious that at every place
one leaves one finds that the portmanteau holds less than ever, and
has become smaller in spite of having generally left something behind
at the last place, until, in very despair, one simply uses very bad
language, takes up all the things, and flings them _en masse_ into the
trunk; and then, having danced a little war-dance on the lid, sits
moodily down upon the same like a perspiring Banshee on a wall, and
smokes a cigarillo, or makes one's notes.
What a blessing have those men lost in these climes who bathe not,
neither do they swim! The bathing is perfect at Palma, in that red-hot
climate and dark blue sea. The water is warm, and to good swimmers, as
buoyant as a feather-bed, with the advantage of having no fleas; though
perhaps, now and then, so they say, with the little inconvenience of
a stray shark or two. The length of time one may remain in the water
without experiencing any chill, is remarkable. One can, in fact, lie on
his back, with face upturned to the soft blue skies and almost go to
sleep. Indeed, the astonishing thing seems to be how anyone can sink in
this heavy medium. It is so transparent at the entrance of the Bay of
Palma, that, during a calm, weeds can be distinctly seen at the depth
of forty fathoms, waving at the bottom among the stones and shells.
In the Middle Ages, Majorca suffered much from the inroads of the
Barbary pirates. Even now the old custom is kept up of lighting
beacons every night all round the island. As soon as one is lit,
the next follows until the entire circle display their signals. All
remain lighted one hour after the last has been trimmed, and are then
extinguished to show that the island is in perfect security.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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