THE ESCORIAL.--ITS PRECINCTS.--SPIRIT AND CHARACTER OF THE EDIFICE.--MAUSOLEUM OF THE KINGS OF SPAIN.--MELANCHOLY GUIDE.--SUBTERRANEAN PASSAGES.--ROYAL REMAINS.--CHARLES V.--PHILIP II.--THE PLAZA MAYOR OF MADRID.--QUEEN ISABELLA AT THE OPERA 142 CHAPTER IX. A BULL-FIGHT.--THE ARENA.--THE SPECTATORS.--PROCESSION.--THE BULL.--APPEARANCE OF THE MEN AND HORSES.--NIMBLE FOOTMEN.--THE COMBAT.--SCENE OF HORROR.--THE BANDERILLEROS.--THE ESPADA.--DEATH OF THE BULL 158 CHAPTER X. TOLEDO.--VIEW OF THE CITY.--THE CATHEDRAL.--PROCESS OF SMOKE-DRYING.--ALMANZA.--VALENCIA.--THE FONDA DE MADRID.--A BENEVOLENT DOCTOR.--SPANISH MULETEERS.--HOW CONTROVERSIES ARE SETTLED 171 CHAPTER XI. VOYAGE TO THE BALEARES.--MAJORCA--PALMA DE MALLORCA.--OUR APPREHENSION.--FONDA DE LAS TRES PALOMAS.--HISTORICAL NOTICES.--DON JAYME.--THE RAMBLA.--COSTUME.--LANGUAGE.--CLIMATE. --CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE 196 CHAPTER XII. THE VALE OF SOLLER.--INTRODUCTION OF THE TELEGRAPH.--SUPERSTITION OF THE PEASANTRY.--PRODUCTIONS OF THE ISLAND.--THE ROAD.--GUARDIA CIVIL.--OBLIGING LANDLADY.--BRIDGE OF LA MÀ.--BATTLE WITH THE TURKS 219 CHAPTER XIII. THE PORT OF SOLLER.--CONVENT OF LLUCH.--A LEGEND OF THE MONASTERY.--CATHEDRAL OF PALMA.--REMAINS OF KING JAYME II.--ATTRACTIONS OF THE BALEARIC ISLES.--MINORCA.--ITS CONNECTION WITH ENGLISH HISTORY 237 CHAPTER XIV. HOW TO STUDY SPANISH CHARACTER.--BULL-FIGHTS.--PROVISION FOR THE SPIRITUAL WELFARE OF BULL-FIGHTERS.--FIGHT BETWEEN AN ELEPHANT AND A BULL.--EXPEDITION TO THE CAVES OF ARTÀ 249 CHAPTER XV. CONSIDERATIONS ON SANITARY MATTERS.--THE MEDICAL PROFESSION IN SPAIN.--THE ART OF PACKING.--NIGHT SIGNALS.--EL GRAO.--CHASSE AUX CALEÇONS ROUGES.--VALENCIA.--DRIVE THROUGH THE CITY.--THE CATHEDRAL 267 CHAPTER XVI. DEPARTURE FROM VALENCIA.--A RAILWAY JOURNEY.--DIFFICULTIES TO WHICH TRAVELLERS ARE EXPOSED.--TARRAGONA.--SKETCHES OF ITS HISTORY.--ARRIVAL AT BARCELONA 281 CHAPTER XVII. BARCELONA.--HISTORICAL REMINISCENCES.--CASTLE OF MONJUICH.--THE CATHEDRAL.--THE GRAND OPERA.--THE PLAZA DE TOROS.--THE LITTLE ROPE-WALKER.--MONTSERRAT 295 CHAPTER XVIII. ANCIENT BRIDGE OF GERONA.--THE POPULATION.--A FIESTA.--SEARCH FOR AN HOTEL.--THE FONDA DE LA ESTRELLA.--LAST SIEGE OF GERONA.--THE CATHEDRAL.--A FEW CONCLUDING WORDS ON SPAIN 313 [Illustration: [++] Decorative Image] CHAPTER I.