The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
Meanwhile, "Burgos!" was suddenly shouted by the guard of the train,
and on looking out, we found we had arrived at that station. About
a mile off was the great cathedral, so well portrayed by our David
Roberts, looming before us ghostly in the dim light of the watery
moon. We descended on to the platform half asleep, and anxious about
the portmanteaux, while the train whisked off, leaving us alone, like
stranded mariners on an unknown shore. We looked about us, and saw
uncouth figures gliding about here and there with lanterns gleaming in
the darkness, shapeless forms wrapped up to the eyes in dirty coloured
blankets--their heads extinguished with steeple hats and other
romantic and curious gear.
A small crowd gradually gathered around us as we sat upon our pieces of
baggage, like Marius among the ruins of Carthage, and then everybody
began to talk at once with the most frightful velocity and alarming
gestures. The chorus, not very unlike that of evil demons in some weird
opera, continued for several minutes, raging with great vigour and
such rapidity that we could not make even the wildest guess at their
meaning, because, amidst the babel no words of their patois could be
distinctly singled out. However, directed we suppose by the special
providence which presides over British tourists, we eventually made
a desperate resolution to follow our luggage and cling to it to the
last. Following these tactics, we found ourselves in a short time
seated in an elongated vehicle, innocent of all springs, which had some
resemblance to a schoolroom on wheels, with all the candles put out.
In this conveyance we had the further advantage of the uninterrupted
society of a monkish gentleman with sandals, cowl, rope, and what
seemed to be a long hairy dressing-gown. Now, we have often heard of
the odour of sanctity, but if the odour by which this holy person was
accompanied was the article in question, we must say we didn't think
much of it.
The vehicle in which we were seated started with a shout, a crack,
and a jerk, very suddenly, and, to any one a little absent, without
sufficient warning. After rattling over the most fearful pavement,
past grey, gaunt buildings, and through dark, narrow, shadowy streets,
illuminated at long intervals by a misty lamp swung across from house
to house, we were landed at the door of the Fonda del Norte.
At this juncture, the fact that in this life confidence in things
as they should be, instead of suspicion of things as they are, is a
mistake, was forced upon us very decisively; for had we, on descending
from the omnibus, not considered it natural that there should be a step
upon which to place the foot, instead of regarding it as possible that
there might not be one,--especially if it was at all required,--we
should not have fallen heavily out into the road, and been smeared all
over with dirt and mire.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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