The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
As the morning broke we were favoured with a glimpse of the sun,
which cheered us with its vivifying beams for about one hour, and then
the dull leaden clouds once more passed over the face of day, while
the cold winds swept down from the bare and dusty hills overlooking
the town. However, as one wanders through the quiet old streets, one
experiences a feeling of indolence which is soothing after the busy
roar of other cities. The various colouring of the quaint Spanish
streets, with the picturesque irregularity of the houses, as looked at
in perspective, is light and lively. The appearance of the balconies,
coloured matting, and painted shutters and blinds, is pleasing to
the eye of the stranger from its novelty. There are never too many
passengers to mar the repose of the scene; and on such as glide quietly
past us we look with no small degree of curiosity. How interesting it
is to see the good priest with the shovel hat, long black skirts, and
stomach-buckle of "Il Barbiere," politely saluting the olive-coloured
young lady with the graceful mantilla as she sweeps along with natural
and queen-like dignity!
However offensive may be some of the sights we see in this country,
however reluctant may be many of its fair denizens to part with
their birthright of dirt, there is grace everywhere--grace innocent
of the slightest attempt at effect, or of the smallest appearance of
affectation; natural indigenous grace, worn by all, either in manner,
dress, or bearing, from the highest to the lowest in the land. Even
the vermin-hunting beggar, sunning his idle self beneath the carved
church door, can be graceful in his rags; and an old rug flung loosely
around his form, with the folds caught up here and there, and falling
in an easy and becoming manner from his shoulder to his feet, gives to
his figure, as he paces calmly by, an air of dignity rarely to be met
with elsewhere; while the worn broad-brimmed velvet sombrero, jauntily
poised on the coloured napkin which is bound round the head and falls
in a knot on the nape of the neck, completes the well-known picture of
the proud but beggarly Don, and places him _in propriâ personâ_ before
our eyes.
At every turn the eye may fall upon beautiful old gems of Gothic
architecture, quaint and solemn old houses, carved with heraldic
blazonry, or with statues of illustrious warriors dead ages ago set in
their walls. Column, pillar, and arch are so intertwined and twisted in
all directions, that the buildings look as if they had been suddenly
paralysed whilst writhing all over in a fit of agony. One may pass
under some beautifully fretted arch, and find oneself within a ruined
court of the most graceful Saracenic device. No step breaks the sleepy
silence of its light arcades; some goats only are quietly cropping the
rank grass amongst the broken pavements of its great square; and the
clouds are passing on softly above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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