The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
Oh! Toledo, imperial city, beloved of the old Goth, rich home of the
Moor and Jew,[18] and chosen throne of the Emperor of the West,[19] how
art thou fallen! And yet thy destiny has only been that which awaits
all cities, all nations. Still the old town has a proud and lofty
aspect on its rock-built seat, and though the splendours for which
it was once celebrated are now mouldering, it still looks down with
haughty glance on the feeble kingdom beneath, and its insolent modern
capital in the midst. A volume might well be devoted to the description
of Toledo, which is still magnificent even in ruins, and inexhaustible
in objects of interest; but as we mean to explore some of the regions
and cities of the warmer South, and even to extend our journey to the
Spanish islands of the Mediterranean, we may not indulge in more than
a passing glance at the crumbling walls, the falling palaces, and the
Oriental courts of the old metropolis of Spain.
A view of the city from any advantageous position in its neighbourhood
is very imposing. The venerable hue of antiquity is upon the whole
place; and there is not a street in which there are not buildings that
have been connected with important events in the history of Spain.
As seen from a distance, its sombre towers rising from the treeless
Vega[20] have a striking resemblance to a great fretted crown, such
as might have been worn by some old barbarian giant, while the green
fields through which the Tagus pursues its course appear like a green
velvet cushion on which the royal diadem reposes. As we approached
nearer we could judge more accurately of the height of the majestic
rock on which the town, like a great castle, is built. The streets are
generally steep and winding. Those of Moorish origin are very narrow,
and it is difficult to find one's way through them. Their narrowness
has this advantage, that it affords a protecting shadow from the
oppressive heat of the noonday sun. Some of the churches are splendid
specimens of Gothic architecture, though, from being towerless, they
are occasionally heavy in aspect. There are many fine examples of the
Mediæval and Saracenic styles, the graceful, airy-like character of the
latter having something peculiarly attractive in it. But the interest
of all we see attaches only to the past; the life of the city has
departed long ago; and we walk through its silent streets as in a dream.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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