The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and MajorcaClayton, John William
History
The Sunny South: An Autumn in Spain and Majorca
Clayton, John William
Majorca (Spain) -- Description and travel; Spain -- Description and travel
The cathedral--one of the richest in the world--is of very ancient
origin; its foundation belonging to a period far back in the history of
Spain. Many are the changes which it has undergone in the revolutions
of the Peninsula. When the Moors conquered the city it was turned into
a mosque; when in 1085 Alphonzo V. recovered Toledo, it remained,
according to the king's promise, still devoted to the religious service
of the Moslem, until the Archbishop of Toledo in the following year
summarily destroyed all the insignia of Saracenic worship within it,
and it became again a temple of the Catholic faith. A century passed,
and St. Ferdinand levelled the edifice, which he felt was tainted with
an unclean spirit, to the ground. A new building was then conceived on
a magnificent plan; and after two hundred years' incessant labour the
present splendid edifice was completed.
The general effect of its exterior, though marred by the close
proximity of surrounding buildings, is exceedingly striking. Like
a magnificent jewel showing its great lustre at every turn of its
cutting, there is no point of view from which it cannot be seen to
advantage. The cupola is a work of great taste, and the open work of
the Muzarabic chapel is remarkably elegant. The stately portals, worthy
of the fane to which they give admission, are of the most elaborate
Gothic, and the grand _façade_, rich with ornament, is a work of
inexhaustible detail and wonderful finish. The open work of the parapet
is no less admirable. The three stories of the _façade_ may be said to
be densely peopled with magnificent statues, and the solitary belfry
tower, from which ascends an elegant spire, rising to the height of
330 feet above the gloomy and silent old streets below, is crowned by
a vast tiara encircling with its iron rays the great cross surmounting
the whole.
The interior of the cathedral is in every way worthy of the noble
aspect of the exterior. If even the idle stranger is struck with
sentiments of veneration when he surveys its noble proportions--its
lofty vaulted roof and its long aisles--what must be the feeling of the
worshipper who comes inspired by faith to pray in such a temple?
The coloured windows are works of high art, in perfect harmony with
the spirit and design of this noble cathedral. While we were examining
them, the organ suddenly pealed out its solemn tones, and we knew not
which most to admire--the thunder-like roll which at one moment filled
the building, or the silvery sweetness of the notes by which it was
followed. _Sic transit gloria mundi_; and truly, in such a place as
old Toledo, or in the older sepulchres of the past, in Rome or Thebes,
the heart of the passing pilgrim feels the weight of ages heavy upon
it. Life seems to move with a slower pace, and the reflective mind is
carried back to the dim eras of remotest history.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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