The Parasol of the Jacobins for a time made a show of severity,
in opposition to the knotty sticks and coquettish Parasols of the
Muscadins (dandies) and Incroyables (beaux); the Merveilleuses
(feminine exquisites), on the other hand, hoisted vaporous Sunshades
like their vestments of nymphs. Then it was that fashion gave their
due to the rights even of this frail protector of the Graces; every
kind of extravagance was allowed, every stuff accepted, however
dazzling and however precious. In the public gardens of Paris, all
the fashionable beauties displayed unusual luxury in the decoration
of their Sunshades; there were tender greens, figured gold stuffs,
flesh-coloured tints with scarlet fretworks, tender blues trimmed
with silver, Indian cashmeres or tissues, the whole mounted on
handles of affected roughness or of exquisitely delicate work. /Ma
paole supême/, as the exquisite used to say, it must be seen to be
believed. Nothing could be more coquettish than these Parasols,
streaked, striped, pied, fretted, as the complement of a dress /à
l'Omphale/, /à la Flore/, /à la Diane/, appearing in a swiftly driven
carriage, above a jacket /à la Galatée/, or a tunic /au Lever de
l'aurore/, amidst egrets, plumes, tufts of ribbons, and every kind of
feminine adornment.
Towards the close of the eighteenth century, the Sunshade was always
covered with the most fashionable tints and with stuff of the latest
taste of the time. Parasols were to be seen dressed in /stifled
sighs/, and garnished with /useless regrets/, others adorned with
ribbons /aux soupirs de Vénus/ (Venus' sighs), whilst the fashion
exacted by turns such colours as /coxcombs' bowels/, /Paris mud/,
/Carmelite/, /flea's thigh/, /king's eye/, /queen's hair/, /goose
dung/, /dauphin's dirt/, /opera flame/, /agitated nymph's thigh/,
and other names which were the singular qualificatives of particular
shades, the rage and infatuation of the hour.
The young priests carried a light violet or lilac Parasol, to remain
in the tone of their general dress--perhaps by episcopal orders. In
the same way, the Roman Cardinals are still followed in their walks
by a deacon, carrying a red Parasol, which makes part--like the
hat--of the ordinary luggage of the "Monsignori."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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