The Umbrella! we behold it in the dreams of our school-days. Here
is the severe and sombre Umbrella of the headmaster, symbol of his
pedantic authority, when he passed us in review in the cold and damp
playground. Here is the Riflard of the poor usher, a celebrated
/Pépin/, covered with a mottled cotton-stuff, its bill-headed handle
polished by his unctuous clasp. And here, above all, is an Umbrella
greeted with loud acclaim, a festive Crusoe, which followed us when
out walking, as the sutler follows the regiment on the march, the
Umbrella of /Mother Sun/, as we used to call it: /Mother Sun!/ an
honest jolly wench, with her head in a silk pocket-handkerchief tied
under her chin, who installed herself beneath the shelter of her
improvised tent about our playtime, to sell to her noisy /children/
cooling lemonade, fruit, barley-sugar, and little white rolls stuffed
with hot sausages.
But let us leave these souvenirs, which carry us too far away, and
return to the /Sunshade/ between 1830 and 1870. If we wished to show
only its transformations during these forty years, we should have
to write a volume quite full of coloured vignettes to give a feeble
idea of the history which fashion creates in an object of coquetry.
About 1834, in the journal called /Le Protée/, we see fashion
personified under the traits of a young and pretty woman visiting
the finest shops in Paris; she fails not to go to "Verdier, in the
Rue Richelieu, for Sunshades," and chooses two--one a full-dress
Sunshade, in unbleached silk casing, mounted on a stick of American
bindweed, with a top of gold and carved coral; the other in striped
wood, having a similar top with a fluted knob, and covered with
myrtle green paduasoy, with a satin border.
Let us skip over some hundreds of intermediate varieties to look a
dozen years afterwards, under the Second Republic, at the Sunshade
described by M. A. Challamel in his /History of Fashion/: "As soon,"
says this writer, "as the first ray of sunshine appeared, ladies
armed themselves for their walks or morning calls with little
Sunshades, entirely white, or pink, or green. Sometimes the Sunshades
called 'Marquises' were edged with lace, which gave them rather
a ragged appearance; or having the shape of little Umbrellas, the
Sunshades could serve at need against a sudden storm. Very soon we
saw Sunshades /à dispositions/ bordered with a figured garland, or
a satin stripe of the same colours, or blue or green on unbleached
silk, or violet on white or sulphur."
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account