So Power hied him to New York, which meant that he passed three hot
nights and two hotter days in a fast-speeding train. The Rock Island
Railroad took him across the rolling prairie to Omaha and Chicago, and,
in the city which no steer nor sheep nor hog can visit and live, he
entered the palatial Pennsylvania Limited, which, in those unregenerate
days, dumped him out early in the morning on the New Jersey shore. Then,
for the first time, he saw New York, and saw it from the river, which is
the one way to see New York for the first time. Crossing by the ferry to
23d Street, he did not, it is true, secure that wondrous initial glimpse
of a city, unequaled, in many respects, by any other, which is
vouchsafed to the traveler arriving by sea. But, even twenty-two years
ago, the busy Hudson was no mean stream, and when Power's unaccustomed
eye turned bewildered from the maze of shipping which thronged that
magnificent waterway it found fresh wonders in the far-flung panorama
stretching from Grant's Tomb to the Battery. At that time Trinity Church
was still a landmark, for New York had hardly begun to climb into the
empyrean; so the prospect was pleasing rather than stupefying, as it is
today.
A hot wind already hissed with furnace-breath over the fourteen miles of
serried streets that lined the opposite shore; for, in the long years
which have sped since Power first crossed the Hudson, New York has
neither lengthened nor broadened. Even mighty Gotham cannot achieve the
impossible; so, in the interim, several new cities have been
superimposed on the older one which spread its beauties before his
bewildered vision. The _Paris_--who of the middle generation does not
remember the _Paris_, with her invariable list to starboard, after an
ocean crossing?--was creeping slowly upstream, and Power was amused by
the discovery that the big ship, like himself, moved with a limp. The
_City of Rome_, whose yacht-like lines suggested the poetry of motion,
but, as is the mode on Parnassus, adhered strictly to suggestion, lay at
anchor near the Jersey shore, and when the ferry churned around her
graceful stem, the grim walls of the Palisades completed a picture which
admits of few peers. Disillusionment came later; but the spell of that
thrilling first impression was never wholly lost. Driving through 23d
Street, on his way to the Waldorf Hotel, Power could not help comparing
this important thoroughfare with Market Street, San Francisco, and State
Street, Chicago, and the architectural stock of the metropolis
experienced a sudden slump. Nor did it wholly recover lost points when
his carriage entered Madison Square, with its newly erected campanile,
almost a replica of the stately Giralda tower in Seville, its glimpses
of Broadway, south and north, its stolid Fifth Avenue Hotel, and its
chastely elegant, though still towerless, white Metropolitan building.
Even the Waldorf, then less than a fourth of the Waldorf-Astoria, though
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