Streatley certainly cannot fail to yield the palm to Goring for beauty.
For Goring is considered by many critics to be the very prettiest village
on the river, a claim which its quaint main street, falling down the
hillside to the river at right angles, does much to establish. But the
surroundings of Streatley, the splendid sweep of heights, which back it
up, cannot be rivalled by Goring. The road running through both crosses
the river, and it is ancient in very truth. It was used by the Romans and
formed part of the famous Icknield Way, but was made long before their
time. For generations before history begins bands of furtive men, ready
for surprise, and as suspicious as wild animals, must have padded on bare
feet down one line of hills, across the river ford, and mounted the
heights again, keenly scanning the country for possible enemies. No neat
creeper-covered red brick cottages then, no church even, though Goring
church is very old, dating back to Norman times, and having been the
church of an Augustinian priory. No mills even, not the most primitive,
and though neither village can be accused of ruining its beauty in a
frantic search after modernism--the mill at Goring, in spite of its mossy
roof, gleaming green and russet, frequented by the flocks of white
pigeons, has adopted an electric generating station! From the
electric-power methods to the Ancient Britons is indeed a far cry!
Pangbourne and Whitchurch, taken as a couple, cannot vie with Goring and
Streatley; though Pangbourne is pretty enough, and the river near it is
island-broken, and particularly attractive. The reach succeeding Goring
and Streatley is dull right up to Wallingford. In some points Wallingford
and Abingdon may claim brotherhood, they are of the same size and about
them hangs the same atmosphere, but the river at Abingdon is incomparably
more interesting. Of Wallingford something more must be said in the
historical reminiscences, and for the time we may leave it, and, skipping
Dorchester, already mentioned, and Sutton-Courtney, another beauty spot,
with an incomparable "pool", go on to Abingdon.
Of the bridge we have already spoken--there it stands, Burford Bridge, old
and irregular, with straggling arches, some round, some pointed. The
bridge is long and rests partly on an island on which is built the Nag's
Head Inn, whose garden occupies the island. The abbey buildings, still
partly standing, founded by Cissa in 675, is one of the most interesting
features of the town. The long range of wall, and the mighty exterior
chimney, probably built about the fourteenth century, show up in season
amid masses of horse-chestnut blossom, for which the town is famous. Henry
I, the learned Beauclerc, was here educated from his twelfth year.
Christ's Hospital, as it is called, with a hall dating from 1400, is one
of the sights of Abingdon, and the day to see it is that on which eighty
loaves of bread are distributed to the poor people of the town. This
occurs once a week.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account