Asia -- Description and travel -- Early works to 1800; Mongols -- History; Polo, Marco, 1254-1323?; Voyages and travels
From Calcutta to Khyook Phyoo, Yule proceeded by steamer, and thence
up the river in the _Tickler_ gunboat to Krenggyuen. “Our course lay
through a wilderness of wooded islands (50 to 200 feet high) and bays,
sailing when we could, anchoring when neither wind nor tide served
... slow progress up the river. More and more like the creeks and
lagoons of the Niger or a Guiana river rather than anything I looked
for in India. The densest tree jungle covers the shore down into the
water. For miles no sign of human habitation, but now and then at
rare intervals one sees a patch of hillside rudely cleared, with the
bare stems of the burnt trees still standing.... Sometimes, too, a
dark tunnel-like creek runs back beneath the thick vault of jungle,
and from it silently steals out a slim canoe, manned by two or three
wild-looking Mugs or Kyens (people of the Hills), driving it rapidly
along with their short paddles held vertically, exactly like those of
the Red men on the American rivers.”
At the military post of Bokhyong, near Krenggyuen, he notes (5th Feb.)
that “Captain Munro, the adjutant, can scarcely believe that I was
present at the Duke of Wellington’s funeral, of which he read but a
few days ago in the newspapers, and here am I, one of the spectators,
a guest in this wild spot among the mountains—2½ months since I left
England.”
Yule’s journal of his arduous wanderings in these border wilds is
full of interest, but want of space forbids further quotation. From
a note on the fly-leaf it appears that from the time of quitting the
gun-boat at Krenggyuen to his arrival at Toungoop he covered about 240
miles on foot, and that under immense difficulties, even as to food.
He commemorated his tribulations in some cheery humorous verse, but
ultimately fell seriously ill of the local fever, aided doubtless by
previous exposure and privation. His servants successively fell ill,
some died and others had to be sent back, food supplies failed, and
the route through those dense forests was uncertain; yet under all
difficulties he seems never to have grumbled or lost heart. And when
things were nearly at the worst, Yule restored the spirits of his
local escort by improvising a wappenshaw, with a Sheffield gardener’s
knife, which he happened to have with him, for prize! When at last Yule
emerged from the wilds and on 25th March marched into Prome, he was
taken for his own ghost! “Found Fraser (of the Engineers) in a rambling
phoongyee house, just under the great gilt pagoda. I went up to him
announcing myself, and his astonishment was so great that he would
scarcely shake hands!” It was on this occasion at Prome that Yule first
met his future chief Captain Phayre—“a very young-looking man—very
cordial,” a description no less applicable to General Sir Arthur Phayre
at the age of seventy!
After some further wanderings, Yule embarked at Sandong, and returned
by water, touching at Kyook Phyoo and Akyab, to Calcutta, which he
reached on 1st May—his birthday.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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