The Two Great Canyons: Excerpts From Letters Written on a Western JourneyCole, Cyrenus
History
The Two Great Canyons: Excerpts From Letters Written on a Western Journey
Cole, Cyrenus
Colorado River (Colo.-Mexico); Grand Canyon (Ariz.); Yellowstone National Park
As at the Yellowstone Canyon, so here every step brings a new view of
the canyon. It is not the same from any two points of observation. Of
its mere immensity one can form no adequate idea. The opposite side
looks hardly a mile off, but it is thirteen miles, in fact. All of
Pike’s Peak might be tumbled into it and hardly make a dam to hold the
waters back. In the drowsiness of the afternoon’s sun I thought one of
the mountains that stand in the bottom of the canyon looked like a huge
pulpit. I thought I saw terrace rise above terrace, up the slopes, and
fifty miles up and down the river. I thought how all the nations of the
earth might be gathered there and seated, and how an archangel might
speak to them and be heard by all. Not only terraces, but temples,
pagodas, castles, battleships, everything that one has ever seen that
is great or grand seems to be reproduced in this canyon, in such varied
ways has the water chiseled itself upon the rocks. Every conceivable
form of things, every imaginable color, has been worked out in this
great gorge. The sun goes down upon it, throwing the shadows of ragged
peaks across yawning chasms, multiplying the awfulness of things seen.
The full sun can not light the depths of it. In the darkness of the
night one walks on the rim of this canyon as on the shores of some
unexplored world, a world still in the process of creation.
Day after day, little parties of sightseers go down into the canyon,
down Bright Angel trail, on the backs of donkeys. It is thirteen miles
by the trail and then the river is still far below them, so far that
they can hardly hear the noise it makes between its rocky banks.
Many had said that when one has seen the Grand Canyon he has forgotten
all about the Canyon of the Yellowstone. But I did not find it so.
Nothing can ever make me forget the Canyon of the Yellowstone. The
two canyons are so different and so distinct that comparisons are
not possible, but contrasts are. In the Grand Canyon the colors are
heavier; in the Yellowstone Canyon the colors have the brightness
of the butterfly. The one is compact, the other immense. The one
is definite, conceivable and comprehensible; the other indefinite,
inconceivable and incomprehensible. The one produces the sensations of
nearness and dearness; the other of aloofness and vagueness. The one is
like a beautiful woman arrayed in many colors; the other like an angel
clothed in austerity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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