The Two Great Canyons: Excerpts From Letters Written on a Western JourneyCole, Cyrenus
History
The Two Great Canyons: Excerpts From Letters Written on a Western Journey
Cole, Cyrenus
Colorado River (Colo.-Mexico); Grand Canyon (Ariz.); Yellowstone National Park
and of these they find a great deal during the winter months. The
tinges of winter are already in the air, even in August, for winter
comes early on this high elevation and when it comes it is severe, the
mercury falling to forty degrees below zero and the snow piling up to
depths of ten or twelve feet.
On our thirty-four mile journey we were shown many objects of interest,
pools the bottoms of which rival the rarest flowers and gems in their
colorings. But also some ugly things, mud geysers, filthy and bad
smelling. At noon we halted for luncheon at one end of the Yellowstone
Lake, and some persons took boats, making the rest of the day’s journey
by water. We reached the Lake Hotel at about four o’clock in the
afternoon, tired enough to appreciate the comforts and hospitalities
of the place. This hotel is one of the best in the Park, lighted
by electricity and heated with steam, the rooms all cheerful ones.
The meals in the dining room, also, were good. The lake itself is a
wonderful body of water, considering its extent and its elevation.
The tops of the mountains stand all around it. It lies in the hollows
formed between mountain ranges. But aside from these features, it is
not more interesting than other bodies of water.
After the rains, the sun went down in mountain splendors. How good it
seemed to see the light flooding through the breaking clouds! We have
been very anxious about the sun for tomorrow is our day at the Canyon
of the Yellowstone and there, if anywhere, one needs the sun to bring
out the colors. I have heard so much about this Canyon, since coming
to the Park, and read so much about it before coming here, that I am
very anxious to see it and to measure it with my expectations. So far,
I must confess, nothing has exceeded my expectations, and much has
fallen far below them. The things as they are, often play havoc with
the things as we have imagined them.
IV.
Yellowstone National Park, Canyon Hotel, August 16: We were not
disappointed in the weather today. A rarer Sunday morning never dawned,
not even in the mountains. There were still some remnant clouds in the
sky. Fortunately, too, these did not disappear entirely. All day bits
of fleecy clouds floated between the sun and the earth, not enough to
darken, but just enough for contrasts. The air was bracing and there
was plenty of it.
As usual, our coach led all the rest. Forty or fifty came trailing
behind. Every one was filled with persons in high glee and in great
expectations. The road was a winding one along the Yellowstone River,
up ridges and dipping down into hollows, with many a curve and a few
short angles, the rolling and tumbling river nearly always in sight.
The river is the outlet for the lake, or rather, the lake is but an
extension, in width, of the river, forming a large reservoir for
the waters from the mountains and from the springs, thus insuring a
constant flow for the river.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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