The Uncensored Letters of a Canteen GirlMorse, Katharine Duncan
History
The Uncensored Letters of a Canteen Girl
Morse, Katharine Duncan
World War, 1914-1918 -- Personal narratives
After breakfast we newcomers hurried out to get a glimpse of the town.
There were plenty of others likewise occupied as Verdun is a veritable
magnet for A. E. F. tourists. The Cathedral is closed to visitors but we
happened upon two French officers who kindly took us through. The roof
is badly damaged and the stained glass of the windows shattered to bits,
but beyond that the Cathedral is comparatively unharmed. I was much
embarrassed when the officers informed me that the _sacrés pierres_, the
sacred stones from the altar, had been stolen and presumably sent as
souvenirs to America. At first I pretended not to understand, but they
took such pains to explain, finally taking me to the altar and showing
me where the little marble slabs had been dug out, that I finally had to
admit I understood. The two nurses who were with us were anxious to
climb the clock-tower, but this, we found, was strictly _défendu_. All
through the war, we learned afterwards, the clock in the tower had been
kept going by the faithful verger who refused to leave his post, and
what’s more, it had kept time. But a short while ago the clock had
started “skipping.” A party of American boys had just visited the tower.
Upon investigation it proved that one of the wheels was missing!
Sometimes I think the French are very patient with us.
Everywhere we went we came upon German prisoners engaged in the most
leisurely fashion in cleaning up. There are several thousands of them
here and more to come. Verdun is to rise from her ruins and live once
more. Yet she can never be in any sense the stately city that once she
was; for while the business and poorer portions of the city below the
hill are not irreparably damaged, the finer part with its stately
mansions and exquisite specimens of mediæval architecture is wrecked
beyond repair. The most serious obstacle in the way of making at least
some small portions of the city habitable at present lies in the great
difficulty of obtaining window-glass.
From the Cathedral we went to the Canteen-in-the-Convent. How the nuns
would stare, I thought, if they could see their virgin precincts in
possession of a mob of boys in khaki, white and black, interspersed with
the blue-coated poilus! Across the back of the building runs a wide
terrace, once worn by pious feet of patient sisters engaged in holy
meditations. Here among the lounging boys stand life-sized carved and
colored images of saints and angels. Their size of course prevents them
from traveling to America as souvenirs, but even so they must stand
witness to the irreverence of young America, for the Angel Gabriel is
hideous in a German gas-mask!
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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