The uncivilized races of men in all countries of the world; vol. 2 of 2: Being a comprehensive account of their manners and customs, and of their physical, social, mental, moral and religious characteristicsWood, J. G. (John George)
History
The uncivilized races of men in all countries of the world; vol. 2 of 2: Being a comprehensive account of their manners and customs, and of their physical, social, mental, moral and religious characteristics
Wood, J. G. (John George)
Anthropology; Ethnology; Manners and customs
“Upon a convex board, several feet long, are arranged parallel, at
about a finger’s width apart, thin straight strips of bamboo, a quarter
of an inch wide; and by the side of these, curved pieces, formed of
the mid-rib of cocoa-nut leaflets, are arranged. Over the board thus
prepared the cloth is laid, and rubbed over with a dye obtained from
the _lauci_ (_Aleurites triloba_). The cloth, of course, takes the dye
upon those parts which receive pressure, being supported by the strips
beneath, and thus shows the same pattern in the color employed. A
stronger preparation of the same dye, laid on with a sort of brush, is
used to divide the squares into oblong compartments, with large round
or radiated dots in the centre. The kesa, or dye, when good, dries
bright.
“Blank borders, two or three feet wide, are still left on each side of
the square, and to elaborate the ornamentation of these so as to excite
applause is the pride of every Fijian lady. There is now an entire
change of apparatus. The operator works on a plain board; the red
dye gives place to a jet black; her pattern is now formed by a strip
of banana leaf placed on the upper surface of the cloth. Out of the
leaf is cut the pattern, not more than an inch long, which she wishes
to print upon the border, and holds by her first and middle finger,
pressing it down with the thumb. Then, taking in her right hand a soft
pad of cloth steeped in dye, she rubs it firmly over the stencil, and a
fair, sharp figure is made.
“The practised fingers of the women move quickly, but it is after all a
tedious process. In the work above described, the Lakemba women excel.
On the island of Matuku very pretty curtains are made, but the pattern
is large, and covers the entire square, while the spaces between the
black lines are filled in with red and yellow.”
We now pass to the liku, or fringed girdle of the women. This is made
of various materials, and much trouble is usually expended in its
manufacture. The ordinary likus are little more than a number of slight
thongs fixed to a belt, and allowed to hang down for several inches.
When worn, it is passed round the waist and tied, not behind, but on
one side, and on festivals the bark cord by which it is fastened is
allowed to hang so low that it often trails on the ground as the wearer
walks along.
The thongs are made of the bark of a species of hibiscus, called by the
natives _vau_, and used for many purposes, of long flexible roots like
that of the cascus grass, and of different grasses. One kind of liku
which is rather fashionable, is made of a vegetable parasite, called
by the natives _waloa_. The thongs of this liku are not thicker than,
packthread, and when fresh, are as flexible as silk. In process of
time, however, they become brittle, and are apt to break. The color of
this material is deep glossy black.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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