Great Britain -- Social conditions -- 19th century; London (England) -- Description and travel
I travel by railroad. I start from home at seven or eight in the
morning, after breakfasting hurriedly. What with skimming over the open
landscape, what with mining in the damp bowels of the earth, what with
banging, booming and shrieking the scores of miles away, I am hungry when
I arrive at the ‘Refreshment’ station where I am expected. Please to
observe, expected. I have said, I am hungry; perhaps I might say, with
greater point and force, that I am to some extent exhausted, and that I
need—in the expressive French sense of the word—to be restored. What is
provided for my restoration? The apartment that is to restore me is a
wind-trap, cunningly set to inveigle all the draughts in that
country-side, and to communicate a special intensity and velocity to them
as they rotate in two hurricanes: one, about my wretched head: one, about
my wretched legs. The training of the young ladies behind the counter
who are to restore me, has been from their infancy directed to the
assumption of a defiant dramatic show that I am _not_ expected. It is in
vain for me to represent to them by my humble and conciliatory manners,
that I wish to be liberal. It is in vain for me to represent to myself,
for the encouragement of my sinking soul, that the young ladies have a
pecuniary interest in my arrival. Neither my reason nor my feelings can
make head against the cold glazed glare of eye with which I am assured
that I am not expected, and not wanted. The solitary man among the
bottles would sometimes take pity on me, if he dared, but he is powerless
against the rights and mights of Woman. (Of the page I make no account,
for, he is a boy, and therefore the natural enemy of Creation.) Chilling
fast, in the deadly tornadoes to which my upper and lower extremities are
exposed, and subdued by the moral disadvantage at which I stand, I turn
my disconsolate eyes on the refreshments that are to restore me. I find
that I must either scald my throat by insanely ladling into it, against
time and for no wager, brown hot water stiffened with flour; or I must
make myself flaky and sick with Banbury cake; or, I must stuff into my
delicate organisation, a currant pincushion which I know will swell into
immeasurable dimensions when it has got there; or, I must extort from an
iron-bound quarry, with a fork, as if I were farming an inhospitable
soil, some glutinous lumps of gristle and grease, called pork-pie. While
thus forlornly occupied, I find that the depressing banquet on the table
is, in every phase of its profoundly unsatisfactory character, so like
the banquet at the meanest and shabbiest of evening parties, that I begin
to think I must have ‘brought down’ to supper, the old lady unknown, blue
with cold, who is setting her teeth on edge with a cool orange at my
elbow—that the pastrycook who has compounded for the company on the
lowest terms per head, is a fraudulent bankrupt, redeeming his contract
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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