A retrospect--Early visitors to Lhasa--The Jesuits--The Capuchins--Van der Putte--Thomas Manning--The Lazarist fathers--Policy of exclusion due to Chinese influence--The Nepalese invasion--Bogle and Turner--The Macaulay Mission--Tibetans invade Indian territory--The expedition of 1888--The convention with China--British blundering--Our treatment of the Shata Shapé--The Yatung trade mart--Tibetans repudiate the convention--Fiction of the Chinese suzerainty--A policy of drift--Tibetan Mission to the Czar--Dorjieff and his intrigues--The Dalai Lama and Russian designs--Our great countermove--Boycotted at Khamba Jong--The advance sanctioned--Winter quarters at Tuna 1-21 CHAPTER II OVER THE FRONTIER From the base to Gnatong--A race to Chumbi--A perilous night ride--Forest scenery--Gnatong three years ago and now--Gnatong in action--A mountain lake--The Jelap la and beyond--Undefended barriers--Yatung and its Customs House--Chumbi--The first Press message from Tibet--Arctic clothing--Scenes in camp--A very uncomfortable 'picnic' 22-34 CHAPTER III THE CHUMBI VALLEY The Tomos--A hardy race--Their habits and diversions--Chinamen in exile--A prosperous valley--But a cheerless clime--Kasi and his statistics--Trade figures--Tibetan cruelties--Kasi as general provider--Mountain scenery--The spirit of the Himalayas--A glorious flora--The Himalayas and the Alps--The wall of Gob-sorg--Chinamen and Tomos--A future hill-station--Lingmathang--A cosy cave--The Mounted Infantry Corps--Two famous regiments--Sport at Lingmathang--The Sikkim stag--Gamebirds and wildfowl--Gautsa camp 35-61 CHAPTER IV PHARI JONG Gautsa to Phari Jong--A wonderful old fortress--Tibetan dirt--A medical armoury--The Lamas' library--Roadmaking and sport--The Tibetan gazelle and other animals--Evening diversions--Cold, grime, and misery--Manning's journal--Bogle's account of Phari--History of the fortress--The town and its occupants--The mystery of Tibet--The significance of the frescoes--Departure from Phari--The monastery of the Red Lamas--Chumulari--The Tibetan New Year--Bogle's narrative--The Tang la and the road to Lhasa 62-82 CHAPTER V THE ROAD AND TRANSPORT