[178] Breech clouts worn by women are described as hanging down a little longer in back than those worn by men; Pring in Howe, p. 72; Williams, p. 143. [179] Williams, p. 143. [180] Vaughan, pp. 47-48, lists fish oil, eagle and rackoon fat, bear and later pig grease used for this purpose. [181] The deerskin from which both breech clouts and leggings were made was de-haired; Morton, pp. 142-43. The method of fastening leggings aboriginally is not described. Wood, p. 73, says that they were attached to the belt with buttons, which in post-contact times is not so unlikely, considering that the Indians learned to mould buttons out of pewter. MOURT’S RELATION, pp. 186-87; Winslow, p. 72. [182] Morton, pp. 142-43; Willoughby, p. 208. [183] Wood, p. 73. [184] Pring in Howe, p. 72; MOURT’S RELATION, pp. 186-87; Winslow, p. 365. [185] Morton, p. 144. [186] Ibid., pp. 142-43. [187] Massasoit sometimes wore a mantle of black wolf skin; Altham, p. 30; Gookin, p. 152; Wood, p. 73. [188] Morton, p. 144. [189] Champlain, p. 90. [190] Twilling is a variety of plaited weaving. [191] “This fringe is formed of the ends of the warp reinforced with loops of the same material to give additional thickness, all being nicely bound together by a single double woof cord of twined weaving.”; Willoughby, p. 247. [192] Ibid., p. 280; Pring in Howe, p. 72. [193] Morton, p. 143. [194] Materials mentioned for sleeves are otter, fox, and cat fur; Winslow, p. 365 and MOURT’S RELATION, pp. 186-87; Willoughby, p. 247; Wood, p. 73. [195] MOURT’S RELATION, pp. 186-87. [196] Morton, pp. 142-43. [197] Williams, p. 98. [198] Wood, p. 73. [199] Rowlandson gives the following description of Indians in 1676 wearing festive attire: “He was dressed in his Holland shirt, with girdles of wampom upon his head and shoulders. She had a kersey coat, covered with girdles of wampom from the loins upward. Her arms from her elbows to her hands were covered with bracelets; theyre were handfuls of necklaces about her neck, and several sorts of jewels in her ears. She had fine red stockings, and white shoes, her hair powered, and her face painted red....”, in S. G. Drake, TRAGEDIES OF THE WILDERNESS (Boston, 1841), pp. 51-52. [200] Gookin, p. 152. [201] Ibid. This material came in widths of about a yard and half, and was colored blue, red, purple, and some was used white. About two yards would be used to make a mantle for a man or woman. [202] Williams, pp. 143-45. [203] These items also appear archaeologically, but in most cases the dating is imprecise. [204] All work in copper and brass was done by pounding the soft metal into shape, and cutting was probably done by scoring with a sharpened stone. Metal casting was unknown to the Wampanoags prior to the arrival of European settlers. [205] Archer’s narrative in Howe, p. 59. A breastplate of this description was excavated in a burial at Fall River, Massachusetts; Willoughby, p. 233.