Egypt -- History -- Mohammed Ali, 1805-1849; Syria -- History; Turkey -- History -- 1829-1878
Egypt in the Delta is about 160 miles wide; but when you ascend the
river, and are clear of the Delta, it narrows to from 11 to 20 miles,
and is shut in by sand-hills and mountains on each side. The country is
richly cultivated, and well irrigated, but in a very primitive manner.
The villages are raised considerably above the plain; but, nevertheless,
are sometimes much inconvenienced by a high Nile, and are of the most
miserable description. The people are poorly dressed in coarse blue
cotton shirts and petticoats; but their wants seemed few; and I saw no
appearance of discontent or unhappiness amongst them.
At sunset on the second day, in passing round a point where there was a
considerable bend in the river, the Pyramids opened to our view,
apparently only a few miles off; their gigantic size gave them this
appearance, though their distance could not have been less than thirty
miles. We continued our route during the night, and at daylight we
stopped considerably below Boulac, the Wapping, it may be called, of
Cairo. From thence we decided to prosecute our journey on foot. As the
vapour that hung over the river became dissipated by a brilliant sun
rising over the Mokhattan hills, on one hand appeared the spires,
mosques, and minarets of the City of Victory, whilst on the other its
beams gilded that part of the seven wonders of the world, the gigantic
relics of antiquity, the Pyramids. About an hour’s pleasant walk, under
the shade of a fine avenue of sycamore trees, brought us to the
comfortable hotel of Mr. Waghorn, to whose perseverance and activity we
owe the comparatively easy traject across the isthmus to Suez. By the
time we had dressed and breakfasted, our guide returned from the
Citadel, where I had sent him to announce our arrival to Abbas Pacha,
the grandson of Mehemet Ali, and the Governor of Cairo. Eleven was the
hour appointed to wait upon his Excellency, who sent a brilliant
cavalcade to conduct us to his palace, consisting of splendid Arab
horses, proudly champing their golden bits, under a profusion of crimson
velvet trappings, each led by a sais, or groom, and a tolerable coach
dragged by four cream-coloured horses; the coach we consigned to the
junior of the party, Captain Martin; Captain Williams and myself
preferred the horses. In this manner we entered the Citadel, the scene
of so many brilliant achievements, and of so many bloody deeds. Memory
failed not to recall one of the most appalling of the latter that
tyranny ever planned or perfidy carried into effect. The foul murder of
the Mamelukes will for ever be a deep stain on the character of Mehemet
Ali. It is true they were troublesome gentlemen, and had they lived
would, in all probability, have destroyed the Pacha; but nothing can
excuse the treacherous manner in which he accomplished his object.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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