I was staying at the Race Point Station on the back shore of
Provincetown. It was close upon eight o’clock at night, the lamps were
lit, the living room was still, and at the end of the cleared and
covered dining table a surfman off duty was reading the day’s paper
and puffing a quiet pipe. It was so quiet I could vaguely hear the
scratching of the pen. Suddenly this quiet world woke to a faint sound,
the sound grew of an instant to a dull and hollow roaring; a whirl of
unseen sand swept like sleet against the northern panes.
“There you are,” called my host through his door, “the wind’s changed,
and if you go on patrol to-night you’ll find some sand flying. Hear
that?”
A fierce, crystally patter of sand was striking at the pane; the hollow
roaring had become a wintry howl. Presently I noticed that other sand
storms had given the northern windows an opaque surface of ground
glass. At the Race and several other stations there are sets of windows
which must be renewed every single year.
Then slowly, very slowly midnight came, and I dressed to go on a
patrol in an old suit with socks pulled over the trouser ends, a watch
cap, and my old navy pea jacket snugged round me with a poilu’s army
belt. The sand takes the surface from oilskins. My fellow patrolman,
Mr. Morris, was clothed in one of those excellent navy wind proof
suits which are ousting oilskins from the Cape; the jumper has a hood
attached to it and the whole suit has a kind of polar explorer air.
After looking to see that he had his flare light signal safely tucked
away, Morris threw open the station door.
The night was bitter cold and overcast, and the air was full of the
strangest dry hissing in the world. Along the frozen strand, and
through the dead beach grass of the inland dunes, loose sand was
flying, hissing as it was borne along upon the ground. The wind was
thick with sand; invisible sand that blew directly into our faces,
struck at our eyes, and set us to blinking, blowing, and weeping; it
forced its way into the nostrils, it invaded the pouches of the ears,
it gathered in the crease of one’s lips and set one to chewing out
grit, one’s eyes in gritty anguish all the while. Sand and dust of sand
began to gather like snow in all the hollow creases of our clothes;
sand sifted down into our boots, sand found a mysterious way through
our collars and down our necks, grit lodged in the eye hollows, in the
eyebrows, and in the short hairs above the ears. And it came to us
hissing and stinging, the cold, dry crystals falling upon the face like
the myriad blows of some tiny cruel whip.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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