The Way of Martha and the Way of MaryGraham, Stephen
Religion
The Way of Martha and the Way of Mary
Graham, Stephen
National characteristics, Russian; Russia -- Religion
Constantinople falls. But Christianity does not fall, rather it grows.
Russian Christianity is saved from much ecclesiastical exploitation,
Levantine corruption, and materialism by the severance of the earthly
tie, the break-up of the patriarchate of Tsargrad. After the Turks took
Constantinople Russian Christianity was fed by the angels. Hence its
fair face to-day.
Over the sea to Russia, to the Kremlins round the many-domed churches,
to the gleaming ikons, to the great choruses, resplendent and triumphant
Orthodoxy; to the land where ever day and night there is witness, where
the young men see visions and the old men dream dreams; to Kief, to
Novgorod, to Moscow, to the Kremlin, to the great pink-walled hill that
stands above the mother-city crowned with churches. Bowing at the
Ilinskaya, baring the head to enter at the Spassky Gate ... my eyes rest
on the wan wall of St. John the Great. I climb to the belfry and let my
fingers pass lovingly over the bulging bells. I light a candle in the
cathedral of the Assumption. I walk across the broad open spaces where
Napoleon’s cannon are ranged and listen to the sad slow chime of the
Kremlin clock giving the hours and the quarters. Here again is a holy
city standing above a merely worldly city, this walled hill over
commercial Moscow, this Sophia exalted above Prudentia.
In the first autumn of the War, when I was at Moscow, I used to go to
the Kremlin last thing each night. They were beautifully starry and
peaceful nights. The churches and the low pavements that wander among
the cobbles were flooded with silver, the toothed battlements and
antediluvian old towers of the Kremlin walls seemed gigantically
exaggerated in silhouette, and yet, though exaggerated, in a way truer,
as if the ordinary vision of them we had by day was not correct, as if
they were really in themselves of enormous importance and
correspondingly enormous proportions. The moat of the Moscow river lay
murky below, and afar among the vast congregation of the houses of the
city a lamp burned here and there as if before votive shrines.
Motionless sentries stood in front of the cathedrals. One’s own steps
echoed startlingly. The single liquid melody of the Kremlin chime broke
out and poured away—_ding_, _ding_, _ding_, _ding_, _dong_, _dell_,
_dell_. Holy Russia was watching.
I went into a cathedral: still many candles were burning. I walked along
the walls: lamps were alight before holy pictures set in the old bricks.
There was a perfect stillness and serenity. I paused, and the mind went
across Moscow and beyond it fifteen hundred miles to Poland and Germany
and Austria where was another scene, a more exterior scene and
manifestation of the life of Russia,—Russia in arms against a false
ideal. Russia was serene though Russia was in deadly struggle. The heart
was beating faithfully, strong hands were smiting the foe.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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