The population of a whole region is astir under the ardent Provençal sun,
to witness a resurrection of the Drama in the historic valley of the
Rhône, through whose channel the civilization and art and culture of the
old world floated up into Europe to the ceaseless cry of the _cigales_.
Châteaurenard! our water journey is ended. Through the leafy avenues
that lead to Orange, we see the arch of Marius and the gigantic
proscenium of the theatre, rising above the roofs of the little city.
So few of our compatriots linger in the south of France after the spring
has set in, or wander in the by-ways of that inexhaustible country, that
a word about the representations at Orange may be of interest, and
perchance create a desire to see the masterpieces of classic drama (the
common inheritance of all civilized races) revived with us, and our stage
put to its legitimate use, cultivating and elevating the taste of the
people.
One would so gladly see a little of the money that is generously given
for music used to revive in America a love for the classic drama.
We are certainly not inferior to our neighbors in culture or
appreciation, and yet such a performance as I witnessed at Orange (laying
aside the enchantment lent by the surroundings) would not be possible
here. Why? But to return to my narrative.
The sun is setting as we toil, ticket in hand, up the Roman stairway to
the upper rows of seats; far below the local _gendarmerie_ who mostly
understand their orders backwards are struggling with the throng, whose
entrance they are apparently obstructing by every means in their power.
Once seated, and having a wait of an hour before us, we amused ourselves
watching the crowd filling in every corner of the vast building, like a
rising tide of multi-colored water.
We had purposely chosen places on the highest and most remote benches, to
test the vaunted acoustic qualities of the auditorium, and to obtain a
view of the half-circle of humanity, the gigantic wall back of the stage,
and the surrounding country.
As day softened into twilight, and twilight deepened into a luminous
Southern night; the effect was incomparable. The belfries and roofs of
mediæval Orange rose in the clear air, overtopping the half ruined
theatre in many places. The arch of Marius gleamed white against the
surrounding hills, themselves violet and purple in the sunset, their
shadow broken here and there by the outline of a crumbling château or the
lights of a village.
Behind us the sentries paced along the wall, wrapped in their dark
cloaks; and over all the scene, one snowtopped peak rose white on the
horizon, like some classic virgin assisting at an Olympian solemnity.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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