Idling up through the south of France, in company with a passionate lover
of that fair land, we learned on arriving at Lyons, that the actors of
the Comédie Française were to pass through there the next day, _en route_
for Orange, where a series of fêtes had been arranged by “Les Félibres.”
This society, composed of the writers and poets of Provence, have the
preservation of the Roman theatre at Orange (perhaps the most perfect
specimen of classical theatrical architecture in existence) profoundly at
heart, their hope being to restore some of its pristine beauty to the
ruin, and give from time to time performances of the Greek masterpieces
on its disused stage.
The money obtained by these representations will be spent in the
restoration of the theatre, and it is expected in time to make Orange the
centre of classic drama, as Beyreuth is that of Wagnerian music.
At Lyons, the _cortège_ was to leave the Paris train and take boats down
the Rhône, to their destination. Their programme was so tempting that
the offer of places in one of the craft was enough to lure us away from
our prearranged route.
By eight o’clock the following morning, we were on foot, as was
apparently the entire city. A cannon fired from Fort Lamothe gave the
signal of our start. The river, covered with a thousand gayly decorated
craft, glinted and glittered in the morning light. It world be difficult
to forget that scene,—the banks of the Rhône were lined with the rural
population, who had come miles in every direction to acclaim the passage
of their poets.
Everywhere along our route the houses were gayly decorated and arches of
flowers had been erected. We float past Vienne, a city once governed by
Pontius Pilate, and Tournon, with its feudal château, blue in the
distance, then Saint Peray, on a verdant vine-clad slope. As we pass
under the bridge at Montélimar, an avalanche of flowers descends on us
from above.
The rapid current of the river soon brings our flotilla opposite Vivier,
whose Gothic cathedral bathes its feet in the Rhône. Saint Esprit and
its antique bridge appear next on the horizon. Tradition asserts that
the Holy Spirit, disguised as a stone mason, directed its construction;
there were thirteen workmen each day, but at sunset, when the men
gathered to be paid, but twelve could be counted.
Here the mayor and the municipal council were to have received us and
delivered an address, but were not on hand. We could see the tardy
_cortège_ hastening towards the bridge as we shot away down stream.
On nearing Orange, the banks and quays of the river are alive with
people. The high road, parallel with the stream, is alive with a
many-colored throng. On all sides one hears the language of Mistral, and
recognizes the music of Mireille sung by these pilgrims to an artistic
Mecca, where a miracle is to be performed—and classic art called forth
from its winding-sheet.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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