Emptying in her company a chest of books that had not seen the light for
several decades, we came across a “Panorama of the Boulevards,” dated
1845, which proved when unfolded to be a colored lithograph, a couple of
yards long by five or six inches high, representing the line of
boulevards from the Madeleine to the Place de la Bastille. Each house,
almost each tree, was faithfully depicted, together with the crowds on
the sidewalks and the carriages in the street. The whole scene was as
different from the effect made by that thoroughfare to-day as though five
hundred and not fifty years had elapsed since the little book was
printed. The picture breathed an atmosphere of calm and nameless
quaintness that one finds now only in old provincial cities which have
escaped the ravages of improvement.
My companion sat with the book unfolded before her, in a smiling trance.
Her mind had turned back to the far-away days when she first trod those
streets a bride, with all the pleasures and few of the cares of life to
think about.
I watched her in silence (it seemed a sacrilege to break in on such a
train of thought), until gradually her eyes lost their far-away
expression, and, turning to me with a smile, she exclaimed: “How we ever
had the courage to appear in the street dressed as we were is a mystery!
Do you see that carriage?” pointing in the print to a high-swung family
vehicle with a powdered coachman on the box, and two sky-blue lackeys
standing behind. “I can remember, as if it were yesterday, going to
drive with Lady B-, the British ambassadress, in just such a conveyance.
She drove four horses with feathers on their heads, when she used to come
to Meurice’s for me. I blush when I think that my frock was so scant
that I had to raise the skirt almost to my knees in order to get into her
carriage.
“Why we didn’t all die of pneumonia is another marvel, for we wore
low-necked dresses and the thinnest of slippers in the street, our heads
being about the only part that was completely covered. I was
particularly proud of a turban surmounted with a bird of paradise, but
Lady B--- affected poke bonnets, then just coming into fashion, so large
and so deep that when one looked at her from the side nothing was visible
except two curls, ‘as damp and as black as leeches.’ In other ways our
toilets were absurdly unsuited for every-day wear; we wore light scarves
over our necks, and rarely used furlined pelisses.”
Returning to an examination of the panorama, my companion pointed out to
me that there was no break in the boulevards, where the opera-house, with
its seven radiating avenues, now stands, but a long line of Hôtels,
dozing behind high walls, and quaint two-storied buildings that
undoubtedly dated from the razing of the city wall and the opening of the
new thoroughfare under Louis XV.
A little farther on was the world-famous Maison Dorée, where one almost
expected to see Alfred de Musset and le docteur Véron dining with Dumas
and Eugene Sue.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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