The fate of Termonde is already known. But I do not apologise for
adding to the literature of its devastation an account of a visit
which I paid to-day. Imagination lacks the stringency of the scandal
actually seen, and we have got, by repeated strokes, to hammer into the
imagination of the world the things that Prussia has done in Belgium.
I went from Ghent to Zele by train this morning, and from Zele to
Termonde by carriage. They call Ghent the flower-town, and not without
some reason. It lies in that part of Flanders in which cultivation
is at its most intensive. That is to say, it is the centre of one
of the greatest agricultural areas in the world. Near Ghent it was
nursery-gardens all the way, a checker-board of colour. The geraniums,
we thought, will never again look like fire; they will look like blood.
Further into the country fewer flowers and more crops and cattle.
Not a square millimetre wasted. All the familiar Flemish picture;
the windmill that looks like two combs crossed, and revolving on a
pepper-box; the old churches, the old castles, reminiscent of the
Spanish persecution; the strong peasant-faces--like those of my own
“Ulster,” but Catholic--lined with labour; the wayside statues; the
villages, with little beauty save that of fruitful effort.
It is a flat country all the way to Termonde, and especially as one
nears the Scheldt. It is well timbered. I noticed again a contrast I
have often noticed before. In England the trees look like gentlemen of
leisure. If they do any good it is by a sort of graceful accident. In
Belgium they look like soldiers. They stand there in planned ranks,
repelling the infantry of the winds, drawing the artillery of the rain,
sheltering, protecting. Add to them the waving patches of hemp, the
corn-stacks, the rich herbage, and you get a closely-tufted and almost
impenetrable country. It is striped everywhere also with little canals
and ditches, so that any sort of military movement, except over the
cobbled roads, must be almost impossible. If one remembers that the
environs of the towns are almost the only places open enough for a
conflict between any substantial forces, a good many events become more
intelligible.
WHAT TERMONDE WAS
But, for the moment, I am concerned with the impression of remoteness
and quiet labour which such a country gives. The peasants yield to it.
At Zele, at Lokeren, they feel the war as some great demon that has
mysteriously passed them by. And then, eight kilometres away, you turn
the bend of a country road at the Bridge of Termonde and drive, let us
say, from something that looks very like Kent into something that looks
very like Hell.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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