Overland journeys to the Pacific; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
disagreeably superior class of young persons. Denver possesses those
other things which make a city livable, but the public schools and the
private houses were to me the most distinctive features. The Denver
Club is quite as handsome and well ordered a club as one would find in
New York City, and the University Club, which is for the younger men,
brings the wanderers from different colleges very near and pleasantly
together. Its members can sing more different college songs in a given
space of time than any other body of men I have met. The theatres and
the hotels are new and very good, and it is a delight to find servants
so sufficiently civilized that the more they are ordered about and the
more one gives them to do, the more readily they do it, knowing that
this means that they are to be tipped. In the other Western cities,
where this pernicious and most valuable institution is apparently
unknown, a traveller has to do everything for himself.
[Illustration: GATEWAY OF THE GARDEN OF THE GODS, AND PIKE’S PEAK]
You will find that the people of a city always pride themselves on
something which the visitor within their gates would fail to notice.
They have become familiar with those features which first appeal to
him, have outgrown them, and have passed on to admire something else.
The citizen of Denver takes a modest pride in the public schools, the
private houses, and the great mountains, which seem but an hour’s walk
distant and are twenty miles away; but he is proudest before all of
two things--of his celery and his cable-cars. His celery is certainly
the most delicious and succulent that grows, and his cable-cars are
very beautiful white and gold affairs, and move with the delightfully
terrifying speed of a toboggan. Riding on these cable-cars is one of
the institutions of the city, just as in the summer a certain class
of young people in New York find their pleasure in driving up and
down the Avenue on the top of the omnibuses. But that is a dreary
and sentimental journey compared with a ride on the grip-seat of a
cable-car, and every one in Denver patronizes this means of locomotion
whether on business or on pleasure bent, and whether he has carriages
of his own or not. There is not, owing to the altitude, much air to
spare in Denver at any time, but when one mounts a cable-car, and
is swept with a wild rush around a curve, or dropped down a grade
as abruptly as one is dropped down the elevator shaft in the Potter
Building, what little air there is disappears, and leaves one gasping.
Still, it is a most popular diversion, and even in the winter some
of the younger people go cable-riding as we go sleighing, and take
lap-robes with them to keep them warm. There is even a “scenic route,”
which these cars follow, and it is most delightful.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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