Overland journeys to the Pacific; West (U.S.) -- Description and travel
THE City of Denver probably does more to keep the Eastern man who is
mining or ranching from returning once a year to his own people, and
from spending his earnings at home, than any other city in the West.
It lays its charm upon him, and stops him half-way, and he decides
that the journey home is rather long, and puts it off until the next
year, and again until the next, until at last he buys a lot and builds
a house, and only returns to the East on his wedding journey. Denver
appeals to him more than do any of these other cities, for the reason
that the many other Eastern men who have settled there are turning it
into a thoroughly Eastern city--a smaller New York in an encircling
range of white-capped mountains. If you look up at its towering office
buildings, you can easily imagine yourself, were it not for the breadth
of the thoroughfare, in down-town New York; and though the glimpse
of the mountains at the end of the street in place of the spars and
mast-heads of the East and North rivers undeceives you, the mud at your
feet serves to help out the delusion. Denver is a really beautiful
city, but--and this, I am sure, few people in New York will believe--it
has the worst streets in the country. Their mud or their dust, as the
season wills it, is the one blot on the city’s fair extent; it is as
if the City Fathers had served a well-appointed dinner on a soiled
table-cloth. But they say they will arrange all that in time.
The two most striking things about the city to me were the public
schools and the private houses. Great corporations, insurance
companies, and capitalists erect twelve-story buildings everywhere.
They do it for an advertisement for themselves or their business, and
for the rent of the offices. But these buildings do not in any way
represent a city’s growth. You will find one or two of such buildings
in almost every Western city, but you will find the people who rent
the offices in them living in the hotels or in wooden houses on the
outskirts. In Denver there are not only the big buildings, but mile
after mile of separate houses, and of the prettiest, strictest, and
most proper architecture. It is a distinct pleasure to look at these
houses, and quite impossible to decide upon the one in which you would
rather live. They are not merged together in solid rows, but stand
apart, with a little green breathing-space between, each in its turn
asserting its own individuality. The greater part of these are built of
the peculiarly handsome red stone which is found so plentifully in the
Silver State. It is not the red stone which makes them so pleasantly
conspicuous, but the taste of the owner or the architect which has
turned it to account. As for the public schools, they are more like art
museums outside than school-houses; and if as much money and thought
in proportion are given to the instruction as have been put upon the
buildings, the children of Denver threaten to grow up into a most
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