After coming through Robideaux's Pass, which was exceedingly difficult,
we descended into Grand River Valley. The snow lay deep, as elsewhere,
and there was no sign of vegetation. One broad, white, dreary-looking
plain lay before us, bounded by lofty white mountains. The Rio Grande
lay fifty miles ahead, so we determined to get through the snow-covered
plain as quickly as possible. We traveled late and camped in the
middle of it, without any shelter from the winds, and with no fuel but
some wild sage, a small shrub which grew sparsely around. At night
the thermometer stood at seventeen degrees below zero. During the day
Ducatel, a young fellow in the company, had come very near freezing
to death. By collecting a quantity of the sage we made sufficient
fire to cook, or rather half-cook, our supper of deer meat, five deer
having been killed that evening by two of the men. Bolting down the
half-cooked meat, we quickly turned into our blankets in order to keep
tolerably warm and to protect ourselves against the driving snow, for
since leaving the States we had scarcely stretched our tents. In the
night, as ill luck would have it, our mules, poor creatures, which
had stood shivering in the cold with bowed backs and drooping heads,
suffering from their exposed situation and half-starved, being now
reduced to a pint of corn twice a day, and having no other resource for
food, broke loose from their weak fastenings of sage bushes and started
off _en masse_ on the back trail. As soon as it was ascertained that
they were gone, in the middle of the night, we had to rise from our
beds, lifting half a foot of snow with our top blankets, and strike
out in pursuit of them. We overtook them several miles from camp, and,
taking them back, made them secure. But we rested little the remainder
of the night.
The next day we reached the Rio Grande del Norte. This we found frozen
over, and we camped on the river bottom, which is thickly timbered
with cottonwood and willow. Here my feet and those of several others
were frozen--the result in part of wearing boots, for which I quickly
substituted moccasins, with blanket wrappers, which are much warmer
than socks, and which, with leggings of the same material, afford the
best protection for the lower extremities against severe cold.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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