Continuing up the river two or three days, we again entered the
mountains, which soon assumed a very rugged character. Nature, in
the ascent towards the Sierra Madre, presents herself with all her
features prominent and strongly marked, her figures bold and colossal.
Our progress became slow and laborious. Our track lay through deep
mountain gorges, amid towering precipices and beetling crags, and
along steep declivities where at any other season it would have been
next to impossible to travel, but where now the deep snow afforded a
secure foothold. In making the ascent of some of these precipitous
mountain sides, now and then a mule would lose its footing and go
tumbling and rolling many feet down. My saddle mule took one of these
tumbles. Losing her foothold, she got her rope hitched upon a large
log which lay loosely balanced on the rocks, and, knocking me down and
jerking the log clear over my head, they went tumbling down together.
But fortunately no one was hurt. A great obstacle to our progress were
the rapid, rough-bottomed, but boggy streams which we had frequently
to encounter in the deep and narrow ravines, where the mules would get
balked, half a dozen at a time, with their packs on. Then we had to
wade in up to our middle among the floating ice in the freezing water
to help them out.
The farther we went the more obstacles we had to encounter;
difficulties beset us so thickly on every hand as we advanced that they
threatened to thwart our expedition. The snow became deeper daily, and
to advance was but adding dangers to difficulties. About one-third
of the men were already more or less frost-bitten; every night some
of the mules would freeze to death, and every day as many more would
give out from exhaustion and be left on the trail.... Finally, on the
17th of December, after frequent ineffectual attempts, we found that
we could force our way no farther. By our utmost endeavors with mauls
and spades we could make but half a mile or a mile per day. The cold
became more severe, and storms constant, so that nothing was visible at
times through the thick driving snow. For days in succession we would
labor to beat a trail a few hundred yards in length, but the next day
the storm would leave no trace of the previous day's work. We were
on the St. John Mountain, a section of the Sierra Madre and the main
range of the Rocky Mountains proper. At an elevation of 11,000 feet the
cold was so intense and the atmosphere so rare that respiration became
difficult; the least exertion became laborious and fatiguing, and would
sometimes cause the blood to start from lips and nose. The mercury
in the thermometer stood 20° below zero, and the snow was here from
four to thirty feet deep. When we built our camp-fires deep pits were
formed by the melting of the snow, completely concealing the different
messes from each other. Down in these holes we slept, spreading our
blankets upon the snow, every morning crawling out from under a deep
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