The Wonder Book of Knowledge: The Marvels of Modern Industry and Invention, the Interesting Stories of Common Things, the Mysterious Processes of Nature Simply Explained
History
The Wonder Book of Knowledge: The Marvels of Modern Industry and Invention, the Interesting Stories of Common Things, the Mysterious Processes of Nature Simply Explained
Industrial arts -- History
The first process here is that of the ensign lacing machine, which puts
a strong twine through the eyelets and ties it in an accurate manner.
This is done very swiftly and exactly, its purpose being to hold the
parts of the shoe in their normal position while the shoe is being
completed. The last, made of wood, is now put in place and tacked fast
by the insole tacking machine, when the upper is placed over it and
fastened by two tacks to hold it in place. Then comes the pulling-over
machine, the pincers of which draw the leather securely against the wood
of the last, to which it is fastened by other tacks. These tacks in the
upper are driven only part way in, so that they may be easily drawn out
when no longer needed.
The welt lasting machine next takes the job in hand, it being almost
human-like in the evenness and tightness with which it draws the leather
around the last, other tacks being driven partly in to hold it in place.
A second lasting machine of different kind, draws it around the toe and
heel. Then comes the upper trimming machines, which cuts away the
surplus parts of the leather, the Rex pounding machine, which hammers it
around the heel, the tack pulling machine which removes the lasting
tacks and puts in others to hold the new placed leather, and the upper
stapling machine, which forms a little staple fastening from wire which
securely holds the shoe upper to the channel lip of the insole.
The shoe is now ready to receive the welt, a narrow strip of prepared
leather which is sewed along the edge of the shoe and holds all its
parts firmly together. This used to be one of the most difficult tasks
in hand-work, but is done rapidly and exactly by this machine. After
this all protruding parts of the welt and upper are trimmed off by
another machine, the insole tack pulling machine removes all the
remaining temporary tacks, and the welt-beating and slashing machines
beat the welt with little hammers till it stands out evenly from the
side of the shoe.
It may seem as if the number of machines engaged in this work are almost
beyond number, but there are nearly as many more to come. In fact, a
factory shoe in many cases is not completed until 170 machines and 210
pairs of hands have taken part in putting it together and getting it
into shape for the wearer, and each of these machines works with an
accuracy which no hand-work can equal. We have so far witnessed the
assembling of the several parts of the shoe into one connected whole.
The remaining processes must be run over more rapidly.
There is a sole-laying machine, a rounding and channeling machine, a
loose nailing machine (the latter driving nails into the heel at the
rate of 350 per minute), a heel seat rounding machine, and various
others, one sewing the welt to the shoe, a leveling machine, a second
nailing machine, which does the final work of attaching the heel to the
shoe, and so on somewhat indefinitely.
[Illustration: EDGE TRIMMING MACHINE]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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