I had been pushing my bicycle, despite its various gears, up a long
heavy slope. Once again in the saddle, I had penetrated into a wild
valley, a mere gorge at first, then broadening into field and forest,
with a pool in the lower distance. The brilliant bouquet that autumn
can make if it pleases, of water and trees and bushes massed upon a
mountain side, was before me--autumn, the flower time of the woods,
when the heaviest burdens have fallen and the spring of trunk and
branch and airy foliage show all the indescribable hues of light.
Golden lindens, pale elms, ruddy chestnuts, copper horse-chestnuts,
rusty oaks, purplish fruit trees, poplars like golden candle-sticks,
form under the level rays of sunlight, a fairy train: it is a gay
parade that would cause a thrill of joyful amazement, did not the
lightest whispering breeze threaten the loss of all the marvellous
attire. Dread and pleasure meet in October walks, dread that comes with
the pleasure that is fleeting.
It was Sunday, and I had met no one. A village through which I had
passed was as if dead. The women were no doubt at church, the men in
the wine-shop. From the whole valley, as from a vast deserted garden,
arose a perfume of old legend, which I inhaled with rapture. The
country here had the look of some deserted park, and I was keen to
discover some abandoned habitation in it. Any usual modern villa would
have dishonoured this ageless landscape. Nothing would answer my mood
but a confusion of ancient stones and wild vines, or at least real
ruins, authentic and crumbling.
To tell the truth, it was not ruins that I had perceived on the
hillside at the end of the avenue of more than century-old oaks. The
avenue led up to a terrace ornamented by urns and stretching all along
the front of the house. The urns were empty and no one had thought
to mow the grass. The chateau was a large building, with mullioned
windows, and a sort of cloister running its entire length, and but for
these ivy wreathed arcades would have appeared almost commonplace. The
dark tone of its walls gave it an aspect of venerable age, with all
the added solitude of silence and the melancholy of the season and the
surrounding forest. There it stood, in its own well-sheltered place,
presenting its front, as an old man his face, to the warmth of the sun,
letting the days flow by. A clump of yellow chrysanthemums and a few
climbing roses gave it the look of a faint smile.
I dismounted to enter into communion with this old place. The gate was
open; indeed the hinges, being sprung, would not allow it to be shut.
A lodge at the entrance was almost hidden among the trees, overwhelmed
as with a flood of greenery by their luxuriant growth. As I drew nearer
I observed that several oaks had been replaced by horse-chestnuts, the
rapid growth of which had speedily filled the gaps that time had made
in the avenue.
A peasant was raking up the nuts, though they seemed to me to be
uneatable.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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