In forging use coke for fuel in the forge. Heat steel slowly and thoroughly to a lemon heat. Do not forge at a lower heat. Do not let the steel cool below a bright cherry red while forging. After the tool is dressed, reheat to forging heat to remove the forging strain, and lay on the floor until cold. Then have the tool rough ground on a dry emery wheel. [Illustration: FIG. 85.--Be sure to have a full yellow heat at the dotted line. Remember this is a boring mill tool and will stand out in the tool-post, and if you do not have a high thorough lemon heat, your tool will snap off at the dotted line. (Ninety-five per cent of all tools which break, have been forged at too low a heat or at a heat not thorough to the center.)] [Illustration: FIG. 86.--Keep your high lemon forging heat up. If you forge under a steam hammer, take light blows. Do not jam your tool into shape. Put frequently back into the fire. Never let the high lemon color go down and beyond the dotted line.] For built-up and bent tools special care should be taken that the forging heat does not go below a bright cherry. For tools 3/4 by 1-1/2 or larger where there is a big strain in forging, such as bending at angles of about 45 deg. and building the tools up, they should be heated to at least 1,700 deg.F. Slowly and without much blast. For a 3/4 by 1-1/2 tool it should take about 10 min. with the correct blast in a coke fire. Larger tools in proportion. They can then be bent readily, but no attempt should be made to forge the steel further without reheating to maintain the bright cherry red. This is essential, as otherwise the tools crack in hardening or while in use. [Illustration: FIG. 87.--Be sure that the tool is absolutely straight at the bottom, so as to lie flat in the tool-post.] [Illustration: FIG. 88.--This is the finished forged tool, and let this grow cold by itself, the slower the better. It is well to cool the tool slowly in hot ashes, to remove all forging strain. You can now grind the tool dry on a sharp emery wheel. The more you now finish the tool in grinding, the less there is to come off after hardening.] In hardening place the tool in a coke fire (hollow fire if possible) with a slow blast and heat gradually up to a white welding heat on the nose of the tool. Then dip the white hot part only into thin oil or hold in a strong cold air blast. When hardening in oil do not hold the tool in one place but keep it moving so that it cools as quickly as possible. It is not necessary to draw the temper after hardening these tools. [Illustration: FIG. 89.--This tool is ground, ready for hardening. Never harden from the forging heat.]