The works of Francis Maitland Balfour, Volume 1 (of 4) : $b Separate memoirsBalfour, Francis M. (Francis Maitland)
Science
The works of Francis Maitland Balfour, Volume 1 (of 4) : $b Separate memoirs
Balfour, Francis M. (Francis Maitland)
Embryology; Zoology
There is no reason to believe that he regarded the expedition as one of
unusual peril; and an incident which at the time of his death was thought
by some to indicate this was in reality nothing more than a proof of his
kindly foresight. The guide Petrus was burdened by a debt on his land
amounting to about £150. In the previous year Balfour and his brother had
come to know of this debt; and, seeing that no Alpine ascent is free from
danger, that on any expedition some accident might carry them off, had
conceived the idea of making some provision for Petrus' family in case he
might meet with sudden death in their service. This suggestion of the
previous year Balfour carried out on this occasion, and sent home to his
brother Gerald a cheque of £150 for this purpose. But the cheque was sent
from Montanvert before he had even conceived the idea of ascending the
Aiguille Blanche. It was not a provision for any specially dangerous
ascent, and must be regarded as a measure prompted not by a sense of coming
peril but rather by the donor's generous care for his servant.
On Tuesday afternoon, July 18, he and Petrus, with a porter to carry
provisions and firing to their sleeping-place on the rocks, set out from
Courmayeur, the porter returning the same night. They expected to get back
to Courmayeur some time on the Thursday, but the day passed without their
appearing. This did not cause any great anxiety because it was supposed
that they might have found it more convenient to pass over to the Chamonix
side than to return to Courmayeur. When on Friday however telegrams
dispatched to Chamonix and Montanvert brought answers that nothing had been
seen of them, it became evident that some accident had happened, and an
exploring party set out for the hills. It was not until early on the Sunday
morning that this search party found the bodies, both partly covered with
snow, lying on the Glacier de Fresney, below the impassable icefall which
separates the upper basin of the glacier from the lower portion, and at the
foot of a _couloir_ which descends by the side of the icefall. Their tracks
were visible on the snow at the top of the _couloir_. Balfour's neck was
broken, and his skull fractured in three places; Petrus' body was also
fractured in many places. The exact manner of their death will never be
known, but there can be no doubt that, in Balfour's case at all events, it
was instantaneous, and those competent to form a judgment are of opinion
that they were killed by a sudden fall through a comparatively small
height, slipping on the rocks as they were descending by the side of the
ice-fall, and not precipitated from the top of the _couloir_. There is
moreover indirect evidence which renders it probable that in the fatal fall
Petrus slipped first and carried Balfour with him. Whether they had reached
the summit of the Aiguille and were returning home after a successful
ascent or whether they were making their way back disheartened and wearied
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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