The Works of Robert Louis Stevenson - Swanston Edition, Vol. 01Stevenson, Robert Louis
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The Works of Robert Louis Stevenson - Swanston Edition, Vol. 01
Stevenson, Robert Louis
English literature -- 19th century
I used to accompany the _Conductor_ on his professional rounds, and grew
to believe myself an expert in the business. I thought I could make an
entry in a stone-breaker's time-book, or order manure off the wayside
with any living engineer in France. Gondet was one of the places we
visited together; and Laussonne, where I met the apothecary's father,
was another. There, at Laussonne, George Sand spent a day while she was
gathering materials for the "Marquis de Villemer"; and I have spoken
with an old man, who was then a child running about the inn kitchen, and
who still remembers her with a sort of reverence. It appears that he
spoke French imperfectly; for this reason George Sand chose him for
companion, and whenever he let slip a broad and picturesque phrase in
_patois_, she would make him repeat it again and again till it was
graven in her memory. The word for a frog particularly pleased her
fancy; and it would be curious to know if she afterwards employed it in
her works. The peasants, who knew nothing of letters and had never so
much as heard of local colour, could not explain her chattering with
this backward child; and to them she seemed a very homely lady and far
from beautiful: the most famous man-killer of the age appealed so little
to Velaisian swine-herds!
On my first engineering excursion, which lay up by Crouzials towards
Mount Mezenc and the borders of Ardeche, I began an improving
acquaintance with the foreman road-mender. He was in great glee at
having me with him, passed me off among his subalterns as the
supervising engineer, and insisted on what he called "the gallantry" of
paying for my breakfast in a roadside wine-shop. On the whole, he was a
man of great weather-wisdom, some spirits, and a social temper. But I am
afraid he was superstitious. When he was nine years old, he had seen one
night a company of _bourgeois et dames qui faisaient la manege avec des
chaises_, and concluded that he was in the presence of a witches'
Sabbath. I suppose, but venture with timidity on the suggestion, that
this may have been a romantic and nocturnal picnic party. Again, coming
from Pradelles with his brother, they saw a great empty cart drawn by
six enormous horses before them on the road. The driver cried aloud and
filled the mountains with the cracking of his whip. He never seemed to
go faster than a walk, yet it was impossible to overtake him; and at
length, at the corner of a hill, the whole equipage disappeared bodily
into the night. At the time, people said it was the devil _qui s'amusait
a faire ca_.
I suggested there was nothing more likely, as he must have some
amusement.
The foreman said it was odd, but there was less of that sort of thing
than formerly. "_C'est difficile_," he added, "_a expliquer_."
When we were well up on the moors and the _Conductor_ was trying some
road-metal with the gauge--
"Hark!" said the foreman, "do you hear nothing?"
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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