The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical StudiesHume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Philosophy
The Year after the Armada, and Other Historical Studies
Hume, Martin A. S. (Martin Andrew Sharp)
Armada, 1588; Europe -- History -- 1517-1648; Europe -- History -- 17th century
about eating were {215} repeated with the addition of one plate of meat
for supper, and the prohibition of fish on meat days. No man, however
rich, was to buy more than four suits of clothes in a year, and no
ermine, silk, gold or silver tissue, no slashes, trimmings, or pinked
cloth might be worn by men. Two fur mantles in a year, and one
rain-cape in two years was the limit of extravagance allowed to a man
in this direction; and the King alone was to wear a red rain-cape.
Lawn and silk for outer garments were confined to royalty, but the
"ricoshomes" might employ them as linings. No crystal or silver
buttons were to be allowed, nor was shaving or other signs of mourning
permitted, except to vassals who had lost their overlord and to widows.
Jews and Moors are cruelly treated in this decree, and their offences
and those of the poorer classes are to be punished by torture or death,
whilst those of the "ricoshomes" are left to the King's discretion.
Ermine, vair, and otter furs would appear to have been amongst the
principal articles of luxury, as the wearing of them is very strictly
regulated, and white furs seem to come next in estimation after them.
For ninety years these laws of Alonso the Wise were repeated and
reimposed with slight variations, but apparently ineffectually; since
in 1348 the Cortes of Alcalá made a presentment to Alonso XI. of
Castile bewailing the luxury and extravagance of the age, and proposing
a new code of sumptuary rules, which in due course the King confirmed.
These rules are very interesting because they demonstrate the great
strides which had been made in luxury, refinement, and civilisation
since the issue of the decrees {216} of Alonso the Wise nearly a
century before. No gold ornaments, no ermine or grebe-neck trimmings,
no seed-pearl embroidery, gold or silver buttons or wire, and no
enamels were to be worn except by nobles. No gold tissue or silk was
allowed except for linings, and no man below the rank of a knight might
wear vair fur or gilt shoes. Even the princes of the blood were
strictly limited in their dress, and were ordered to use tapestry cloth
or silk, but without gold or trimming of any sort. The Spartan wedding
regulations of Alonso the Wise had now become obsolete with the advance
of wealth, but the new rules, although wider, were to be enforced with
equal or greater severity. No gentleman was to give his bride within
four months after marriage more than three suits of clothes, one of
which might be of gold tissue, and one embroidered with seed-pearls to
the value of 4,000 maravedis, an enormous sum when we consider that
ninety years before 150 maravedis were the limit of the monarch's daily
expenditure, and that at this date, 1348, the value of a sheep was only
eight maravedis. The bride's trousseau is regulated down to the
smallest details, and the penalty for exceeding them is the loss of
one-quarter of his land by the too-generous gentleman who does so. The
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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